Within the first few moments of viewing the surrounding linen upholstery of the ZEGNA show, it quickly became clear that the team mission was to transport us into paradise. The new collection is the kind of attire you would wish for your ideal trip abroad, but it’s not foreign to those of us who have been following along with ZEGNA’s journey.
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Since its inception, ZEGNA’s artistic director Alessandro Sartori has been steadily working to curate a new concept around bespoke tailoring—one that thoughtfully separates from the sartorial codes of our evolving fashion zeitgeist. Meticulous construction is something you would likely hear murmured in the halls of his designer world and one that comes to mind instantly here.
With this in mind, the latest show was about just that, expertly tailored ensembles that felt relaxed and at ease, floaty and refined at the same time. With the use of soft natural textures, ZEGNA’s latest showing aims to be worn for any occasion. Made for one who can appreciate the elegance of the round-neck tops, and uniquely moulded bombers that melt blissfully into the shirts, sack jackets with three-quarter-length sleeves that lend the comfort and sophistication we have become familiar with from the designer.
There is an unmistakable air of quiet luxury with this latest showing. Sartori made it known that around about 70 per cent of this collection was conceptualised using the Milan-originating Oasi Linen, and to say that the craftsmanship of the material was a major focus would be an understatement.
These touches are discreetly added into the lining of the leather coats through eccentric collars, formed into an almost wool-like construction in the boxy “guru collared” jacket with pulled-in pleats under each pocket. This piece was one of the most memorable and one that exemplifies the level of intricate craftsmanship for which Sartori is known for.
For the most part, this collection payed homage to the stoned surroundings of the Piazza San Fedele before dreamily escaping beyond the neutral into light pastels; pink, green, and blue. And of course, browns and camels were used in full effect. As for the linen upholstery? The bales serve a double purpose, being transported back to the warehouse where they will be used to create Oasi Lino products. Innovative and sustainable in his approach, Sartori’s message is clear that he aims to be forward-thinking.
In his own words, “At ZEGNA, we keep rethinking what an efficient wardrobe should be like today, further delving into the idea of creating a system of elements — tops, bottoms, underpinnings and accessories — that can be combined and self-styled however one prefers. It’s the idea of the uniform that prompts non-uniformity.”
And with all of this texture and bespoke tailoring, it struck the perfect balance of light and ethereal. This is ZEGNA’s wheelhouse, and in doing so, the fashion house created the ideal summer essentials for any trip abroad. You can find more of the collection coverage and all highlights from the ZEGNA show via the link below.
