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Best Watch Releases of Watches & Wonders 2024 – Part 4

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By Nick Hall - News

Published: 13 Apr 2024, Last Updated: 17 Apr 2024

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We’re nearing the end of Watches & Wonders 2024, but that doesn’t mean that the foot is lifting off the gas. The show has continued unabated, with a seemingly endless number of novelties, new releases and stunning one-offs emerging from behind the hallowed Geneva doors. IWC keeps on delivering, Jaeger-LeCoultre reigns horological hellfire on us all, Arnold & Son goes super complicated and Piaget does what it does best.

Here, we’ll be following the prior day’s events, highlighting some of the most interesting, notable and impressive pieces. So, hang on and enjoy the wild ride that is Watches & Wonders 2024!

Jaeger-LeCoultre Duometre Heliotourbillon Perpetual

• Brand: Jaeger-LeCoultre
• Model: Duometre Heliotourbillon Perpetual
• Reference: Ref. 6202420
• Movement: Manually-wound Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 388
• Diameter: 44mm
• Water-Resistance: 30m
• Power Reserve: 50 hours for each barrel
• Availability: Limited to 20 pieces
• Price: 400,000 Euros (Roughly AUD$650,000)

To round out Watches & Wonders 2024, Jaeger-LeCoultre unveiled what could well be the watch of the show. The 44mm Duometre Heliotourbillon Perpetual is again based on the Duometre dual-motor framework, similar to the Duometre Chronograph Moon or Quantieme Lunaire, however, this sees the design turned 90 degrees. Why? To accommodate a brand-first tourbillon movement.

Powered by the calibre 388, the latest release sees an entirely new tourbillon configuration spin on three axes to create a ‘spinning top’ effect. Three titanium cages, each set at a different degree, complete rotation in 30 and 60 seconds respectively with additional support added by ceramic ball bearings. The in-house movement beats at a frequency of 4Hz (28,800 vph) to further enhance chronometry, whilst also incorporating a perpetual calendar with a grande date indication and moon-phase indication accurate to 122 years.

The tourbillon itself is set above a background of deep blue lacquer that JLC says represents a starry sky. Impressively, when the tourbillon spins, red triangles set on the third cage indicate 20-second intervals marked on a sapphire crystal arc. Conversely, the main dial is crafted from a mix of opaline, brushed and azuré surfaces creating a delicate constant that doesn’t draw attention away from the stunning complication.

The new Jaeger-LeCoultre Duomatre Heliotourbillon Perpetual is an exclusive piece, limited to just 20 examples worldwide. The model retails for €400,000 with each presented on a brown alligator leather strap with small-scale alligator lining.

Cartier Santos-Dumont Rewind

• Brand: Cartier
• Model: Santos-Dumont Rewind
• Reference: Ref. WGSA0102
• Movement: Reversed manual winding, calibre 230 MC
• Diameter: 31.5 x 43.5mm
• Water-Resistance: 30m
• Availability: Limited to 200 pieces

Blink and you might miss this one. Limited to just 200 pieces worldwide, the new Cartier Santos-Dumont Rewind is an ultra-exclusive new take on the classic traveller’s piece. Rich with ruby red and dressed to the nines in platinum, this bright and bold new release is hard to miss but impossible to ignore.

For this stunning new piece, Cartier has opted for a carnelian dial, accentuated by the signature Roman numerals for which the range has become synonymous, but there is one major change. In a unique move that feels completely out of left field, the Santos-Dumont Rewind indicates the time in a reverse arrangement. Through the reversed manual winding, calibre 230 MC movement, the delicate apple-shaped hands move counter-clockwise around the dial, rejecting tradition and offering a completely new take on time mechanics.

Trivial, perhaps, but the stylistic choice does feel like a breath of fresh air. It’s undoubtedly been done before and it’s hardly as confusing as the Franck Muller Crazy Hours, but the Santos-Dumont Rewind is completely backwards, and it works. Design-wise, it still has its ties to the original 1904 model, right down to the Cartier signature engraved on both sides of the watch’s dial, but there is just something unequivocally exciting about this piece. Expect big things from this red devil.

Arnold & Son Longitude Titanium

• Brand: Arnold & Son
• Model: Longitude Titanium
• Reference: Ref. 1LTAT.J01A.N001U / Ref. 1LTAT.U01A.N001U / Ref. 1LTAT.F01A.N001U 
• Movement: A&S6302, self-winding mechanical, COSC-certified 
• Diameter: 42.5mm
• Water-Resistance: 100m
• Power Reserve: 60 hours
• Price: CHF 22,600 / CHF 21,500 / CHF 21,500

Arnold & Son’s foray into the world of chronometers has been well-documented over the past few years, but the new Longitude Titanium represents its boldest step yet. The 42.5mm COSC-certified chronometer arrives in a fully titanium case, offering a robust and lightweight approach to the Maison’s already stellar lineup. What’s more, there is a little something for everyone.

Available in three references; Kingsand Gold (which is limited to just 88 pieces), Ocean Blue and Fern Green, the Arnold & Son Longitude Titanium again recalls the brand’s unique ties to ship-building and sailing. As the brand explains, the case middle is “taut like a ship’s waterline, while the case back is basin-shaped like a keel”.

Interestingly, I found that the all-round design, an approach that saw no straight lines incorporated, gave this timepiece a somewhat ultra-modern feel. While it certainly has its roots in John Arnold’s early marine chronometers, the silhouette, alongside the mirror-polished power-reserve indicator shown by cut-outs in the dial at 12 o’clock, brings a cautious modernity to an otherwise heritage-inspired piece.

Inside, the brave new approach continues. The Longitude Titanium is powered by the new A&S6302 calibre, a movement characterised by its wound oscillating weight design and 22-carat gold construction. Trust me when I say that Arnold & Son left nothing to the imagination when designing this piece. It’s glitzy and glamorous, while altogether robust and accurate, making for an almost brutally built timepiece that borders on over-manufactured. That being said, you can’t deny that Arnold & Son is forging an interesting new path, the future of which looks damn exciting.

Panerai Submersible Tourbillon GMT Luna Rossa Experience Edition 

• Brand: Panerai
• Model: Submersible Tourbillon GMT Luna Rossa Experience Edition
• Reference: Ref. PAM01405 
• Movement: Hand-wound mechanical, P.2015/T calibre
• Diameter: 45mm
• Water-Resistance: 300m
• Power Reserve: 96 hours

At the start of the week, if you asked me if I thought there was anything missing from Panerai’s novelties showing, I probably would have said an enormous seafaring GMT that looks near-indestructible. Lo and behold, the Italian marquee has delivered. The Submersible Tourbillon GMT Luna Rossa Experience Edition is a 45mm monster that packs a hand-wound mechanical, P.2015/T calibre capable of dishing up 96 hours of power reserve. Make no mistake, this is an adventurer’s piece.

The first Submersible in 45mm to feature the tourbillon complication, this new watch has a lot going for it. Namely, it is crafted from Carbotech, a composite material based on carbon fibre that improves strength-to-weight and ergonomics. Visually, I found that the matt black surface, which varies according to the cutting of the material, gives a rather unique finish that looks much better in real life than in images or renders. Due to the process, it feels as though every watch has completely different aesthetically from all the others in the lineup, which is certainly a benefit for those looking for a one-off.

Contrasting the Carbotech design is a titanium bezel that has been finished with a black DLC coating and adorned with white lacquer indexes. Somewhat interestingly, Panerai has also opted for an open-worked display that provides a glimpse into the watch’s mechanical construction.

Limited to just 20 pieces worldwide, the Submersible Tourbillon GMT Luna Rossa Experience Edition PAM01405 will make its official debut in July 2024 in the lead-up to the America’s Cup finals. If you do manage to get your hands on one of these ultra-exclusive pieces, you won’t simply be walking away with a piece of horology history, either. Panerai has confirmed that owners of the watch will be invited to partake in a “breathtaking experience” curated by the Maison during the finals of the America’s Cup in Barcelona. This exclusive opportunity includes a behind-the-scenes view of the competition, offering unmatched access and engagement with the Luna Rossa Prada Pirelli team.

Piaget High Jewellery Watches

The birthday party continues. Fresh off unveiling a revamped iteration of the Polo 79 and showing off a new Couples Polo, Piaget has dipped even further into the archive book. To celebrate the maison’s 150th anniversary, Piaget has announced the revival of its most iconic High Jewellery Watches; the Swinging Sautoir and the Aura.

Swinging Sautoir

Dating all the way back to 1957, the Swinging Sautoir is arguably the maison’s most important high jewellery piece. From the stunning precious metal design to the ultra-thin 9P hand-wound mechanical movement, the unique piece of art represented everything that Piaget stood for and for the 150th anniversary, it marks a renewed focus on elegance on the austere kind.

Three new Swinging Sautoirs models have been unveiled, each in a softly rounded trapeze case, a nod to the shape of the cases from the original 1969 collection, with two transformable to be worn on the wrist. The first features twisted gold chains that house meticulously crafted single strands of gold, set on a necklace of malachite, turquoise beads, yellow sapphires and brilliant-cut diamonds. The second is a double chain – one diamond – set – anchored by a kaleidoscopic white opal cabochon of 11.68 cts suspending the watch case.

Cuff Watch

After nabbing GPHG’s Ladies Watch prize for last year’s Hidden Treasures cuff, Piaget followed it up this year with a new Cuff Watch, a reference to its 1969 icon. It arrives with a black opal dial, highlighted by iridescent greens and blues that surfaced from the intricate hand-made gold chain cuff.

Aura

Finally, the Aura also made a welcomed reappearance at this year’s event, launching two new variations of the glitzy timepiece. The unique models arrived emblazoned with a blinding number of rubies, pink sapphires and diamonds that have been masterfully cut and set to create a face of thin rubies that radiate from the centre of the dial. As far as precious gem setting and fine watchmaking goes, Piaget may well have pipped everyone to the post.

IWC Schaffhausen Portugieser Chronograph

• Brand: IWC 
• Model: Portugieser Chronograph
• Reference Number: Ref. IW371626, Ref. IW371625, Ref. IW371624
• Diameter: 41mm
• Water Resistance: 30m
• Calibre: IWC Manufacture calibre 69355
• Power Reserve: 46 hours

For over 25 years, the Portugieser Chronograph has served as IWC’s premier sporty release and as an unashamed fan, I’ve long been calling for an upgrade. This year, the watchmaker delivered, unveiling three new versions of the timepiece, each with their own unique styling.

The Ref. IW371626 features an 18-carat white gold case, Horizon blue dial, rhodium-plated hands and appliques, while the Ref. IW371625 has an 18-carat 5N gold case, Obsidian dial, gold-plated hands
and gold appliques. Finally, the Ref. IW371624 arrives with a stainless steel case, Dune dial, gold-plated hands and gold appliques, giving arguably the most timeless finish of the three.

As expected, the vertical alignment of the sub-dials remains a consistent visual language across the range, however, IWC has also incorporated a subtle nod to its time-keeping heritage. The inner flange of the new Portugieser Chronographs is printed with a quarter-second scale, enabling high-precision stop-time reading. It’s a small feature but one that IWC fans, myself included, will greatly appreciate.

Perhaps the most interesting element of the new Portugieser Chronographs are the lacquered dials, which appear to be a consistent pattern this year. We’ve previously seen OMEGA drop a white lacquered dial Moonwatch and recent trends have dictated a sweeping movement towards the traditional practice. IWC’s approach could well be the best, with the new dials, particularly the Horizon Blue model, providing an entirely eye-catching result.

Inside, the new Portugiser Chronographs are powered by the IWC-manufactured 69355 calibre, a mechanical chronograph movement IWC claims is engineered with a focus on robustness and longevity. with a power reserve of 46 hours, it may not quite measure up to some of the maison’s other 2024 Watches & Wonder releases, but it’s still a damn good watch.

Van Cleef & Arpels Lady Arpels Jour Enchanté

• Brand: Van Cleef & Arpels
• Model: Lady Arpels Jour Enchanté
• Diameter: 41mm
• Movement: Manual-winding mechanical movement

If there was an award for being the most extravagant, Van Cleef & Arpels would undoubtedly take home the chocolates. For Watches & Wonders 2024, the maison has unveiled a new Lady Arpels Jour Enchanté, a 41mm white-gold and diamond stunner that has been meticulously hand-sculpted and immaculately finished. From the white gold leaves and plique-à-jour enamel to the yellow sapphire blossoms and dazzling diamonds, there isn’t much the brand has left out of this release.

According to Van Cleef & Arpels, this latest masterpiece took a whopping two years of development and 180 hours of work to assemble the dial and it shows. The façonné enamel finish provides a unique almost translucent coloure aesthetic I haven’t seen in the flesh before. The dispersion of light through the enamel works effortlessly to highlight the masterful use of precious gems, making them a part of the scene rather than a mere highlight.

To achieve the façonné enamel effect, the material is gently poured onto a stainless-steel medium and then sculpted through whittling motions, sliver by sliver, to produce a three-dimensional form. Several firings see the enamel carefully glazed until the surface becomes smooth, before being refired for stone setting. In a word, the Van Cleef & Arpels Lady Arpels Jour Enchanté is flawless.

While it’s not exactly the most innovative new release, Rolex is banking on style being a key motivator for this release. As a dress watch, it achieves everything it sets out to – deliver premium aesthetics in an ergonomic form, adding just a touch of modern luxury.

Hublot Spirit of Big Bang Sang Bleu Sapphire

• Brand: Hublot
• Model: Spirit of Big Bang Sang Bleu Sapphire
• Reference: 648.JX.0102.RT.MXM24
• Diameter: 42mm
• Movement Type: HUB4700
• Power Reserve: 50 hours
• Water resistance: 50m
• Limited Edition: 100 pieces

The wild culmination of Hublot’s eight-year collaboration with Sang Bieu founder and tattoo artist Maxime Plescia-Buchi, the Spirit of Big Bang Sang Bleu Sapphire uses polished sapphire crystal to craft a timepiece that’s reminiscent of a 3D tattoo. This is down to its overlaying of hexagons, rhombuses, and triangles to create a unique geometric form that makes a statement, much like a high-quality piece of body art.

Powered by the HUB4700 movement—a skeletonised automatic chronograph with the date at 4.30, a 50-hour power reserve, and an oscillating weight redesigned in the Sang Bleu style—the watch’s sapphire extends from the dial to the case and the bezel. Its overall complexity and the intricate geometry of Plescia-Buchi’s polygonal tattooing meant that Hublot had to push its limits in terms of machining sapphire in order to bring it to life.

While the watch may appear somewhat delicate, Hublot’s process of over 100 hours of 3D machining has resulted in a product that’s almost as hard and scratch-resistant as a diamond, rating a 9 on the Mohs scale, compared to the 10 awarded to diamonds. Saying that, we’d probably still treat it with care.

Chanel J12 Diamond Tourbillon Calibre 5

• Brand: Chanel
• Model: J12 Diamond Tourbillon Calibre 5
• Reference: Ref. H7381
• Diameter: 38mm
• Movement Type: Caliber 5 manual-winding mechanical movement with flying tourbillon
• Power Reserve: 42 hours
• Water resistance: 50m

Traditionally when high-fashion brands enter the watch industry, it rarely works out well, but in recent years that has changed. Maisons such as Hermes and Gucci have made serious plays in horology and now it’s Chanel’s turn. For Watches & Wonders 2024, the French powerhouse has debuted a number of pieces but the J12 Diamond Tourbillon Calibre 5 is easily the most exciting.

Arriving two years after the original J12, this new tourbillon takes Arnaud Chastaingt’s wildly intriguing piece and reimagines it for a new era. The 38mm matte black ceramic model houses the manual-winding mechanical movement, complete with a diamond set tourbillon cage. As far as timepieces go, the new model is a rather ambitious new release, proving that Chanel could well be a force to be reckoned with in the coming years.

Watches & Wonders 2024 FAQs