We’re in the midst of SIHH 2018, so that means some amazing timepieces will be featured in this instalment of our regular watch series focusing on everything horology-related, The Wind Up. From Audemars Piguet to Girard-Perregaux, from H. Moser & Cie to Vacheron Constantin, we’ve got it all. So as always guys, sit back, relax and enjoy!
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The Wind Up – Watch News #55
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Grande Complication
Audemars Piguet’s iconic Grande Complication is back, better than ever, and in two brand new case materials: white ceramic or black ceramic. Sitting in a 44mm wide ceramic case, it houses a movement that is draw-droppingly complex. It’s made up of 648-components, 52 of those are balancing jewels. It’s 31.6mm in diameter and a whopping 8.55mm in depth, and it incorporates a magnificent array of complications which include the passing hours and minute indicators, as well as a full perpetual calendar and a split-seconds chronograph (or a rattrapante). This may look like your everyday Royal Oak Offshore, but believe me, it isn’t. The cost? Just under a cool Aussie million.
Girard-Perregaux Neo-Tourbillon With Three Bridges Skeleton
The “Tourbillon With Three Bridges” is one of Girard-Perregaux’s most infamous and iconic watchmaking designs. It’s an elaborate design that is unlike anything I’ve ever seen. Now Girard-Perregaux, in their most forward-thinking manner, have released the Neo-Tourbillon With Three Bridges Skeleton, a demonstration of watchmaking to the highest degree in a market that has never been as competitive and as clustered as it is now. The calibre GPO09400-0011 is on full show, whether it be through the sapphire crystal through the dial or through the case back. Whichever angle you look at it, the level of workmanship on it is second to none. The Laureato was Girard-Perregaux’s building block into a new market space. The Neo-Tourbillon With Three Bridges Skeleton is simply an expression of just how capable Girard-Perregaux can be as a true haute horlogerie atelier.
H. Moser & Cie Venturer Concept Blue Lagoon
There is nothing like a well made, well put together watch. Honestly. Sometimes even the simplest, most uncomplicated and humblest of timepieces can turn out to be the fan favourite. The Venturer Concept Blue Lagoon is that watch. Available in a 39mm case made of either white gold or red gold, the Venturer Concept Blue Lagoon has a gorgeous flow to it. The Blue Lagoon fumé dial looks spectacular with either metals, but there’s just something about the red gold variant that hits the right spot for me. Powered by the HMC327 movement and good for about 3-days’ worth of power, the Venturer Concept Blue Lagoon is a very potential avant-garde daily beater. Good stuff from one of my favourite independents.
Vacheron Constantin Traditionelle Tourbillon
This watch is killer. In every sense of the phrase. Available in either platinum (limited to 25-pieces) or pink gold, the Traditionelle Tourbillon is Vacheron’s debut piece to feature their very first automatic tourbillon. Within the 41mm case lies the in-house manufactured Calibre 2160, a tourbillon movement powered by a beautiful hemisphere rotor which, thankfully, doesn’t obscure the mechanism at all. It’s a gorgeous movement in an equally as gorgeous timepiece. Vacheron Constantin continues to reign supreme as one of my favourite watchmaking manufacturers, and the Traditionelle Tourbillon just further reinforces that.
Greubel Forsey GMT Earth
At the very pinnacle of watchmaking lore lies an atelier that have continued to bewilder, excite and intrigue the masses. Enter the manufacture of Greubel Forsey, arguably the kings of watchmaking. The GMT Earth is a new iteration of their infamous GMT timepiece. The Earth globe sitting at about 8 o’clock protrudes from the body of the case, and this iconic design has made Greubel Forsey into a household name. This is a super complex timepiece that has been finished to a degree of which we’ve come to expect from the haute horlogerie atelier. It’s a highly involved timepiece that demands your attention and respect, and try as I might to find fault with it, there is absolutely nothing negative to be said of it. Then again, some may say its 610,000CHF price tag is a bit depressing. But apart from that, sheer watchmaking perfection!
Now here’ something a bit different. From Geminii we have more of a watch accessory per se than a watch in itself. Geminii is actually a connected watch strap that adds “smart” functionality to a wristwatch. It creates a harmonious partnership between traditional mechanics and contemporary technologies that bbenefit the user greatly. For example, whilst connected to your timepiece, the Geminii will sync to your smartphone, updating you on your daily activity levels, as well as giving you reminders to move and notifications from your phone, a nifty find your phone function, a remote camera function as well as sleep monitoring. Beyond that, and on request, you can also get heart rate monitoring, blood oxygen levels, weather tracking and custom designs. The companion app is easy to use and available through the App Store or the Play Store. We’re seeing more and more of these kinds of devices, and I for one think they’re a great idea, especially considering that you can wear your favourite mechanical timepiece and still be “connected”.
If you enjoyed The Wind Up and would like to continue reading about watches, you can head on over to my blog, Haulogerie, where I delve a bit deeper into the wonderful world of watches.