Bell & Ross displayed its novelties at Geneva’s Watches and Wonders festival for the first time this year. The young Parisian brand was surrounded by some of the oldest Swiss watchmaking names and offered a colourful trio of new watches. Renowned as an aviation specialist it was refreshing to see a new diver’s watch and an extravagant fully gold piece. Of course, the remaining watch was a pilot’s GMT watch ensuring that the three new models represent the air, land and sea.
You’ll also like:
What is a GMT Watch? History, Uses, Benefits Explained
Bell & Ross’ New BR-X5 Boldly Draws Upon a Rich Aeronautical Heritage
Breitling’s New Premier B01 Chronographs Put You in the Pilot’s Seat
Sticking with the brand’s penchant for aviation watches, the first of the brand’s novelties is a watch displaying multiple timezones, ideal for a pilot. The large steel timepiece fully embraces Bell & Ross’s house style, and for fans of the French watchmaker, will be instantly recognisable. The BR 03-93 case features its signature ’round within a square’ design, mimicking the instruments within an aircraft cockpit. This watch oozes aviation chic and could even draw comparisons with Rolex’s ever-popular GMT Master II. Like the Rolex, Bell & Ross’s new release features the Batman colourway of blue and black – well, blue and grey, but it’s near enough.
Unlike the brand’s first BR 03 GMT watch, which was housed in a lightweight titanium case, this new release opts for straightforward steel construction. The original GMT watch from the BR 03 family was redesigned in 2021 to emphasise the functional nature of the watch, with a focus on legibility for both time zones, particularly in the dark. This latest version sticks to that goal and has oversized numerals, large hands, great lume and an unmissable orange GMT hand.
Since Bell & Ross debuted its Hydromax dive watch in 1997, the brand has been keen to expand beyond its aviation niche. But any new dive watch release from the brand comes with big expectations. The Hydromax had a record-breaking water resistance that held out to 11,100 metres. But that was far from our minds when we saw the Diver White Bronze. Boasting a pearl white dial and a bronze case, the BR 03-92 is an eye-catching piece.
Again, the aesthetic is unapologetically Bell & Ross and still evokes the cockpit instrument feel of the BR 03 family. But the rich bronze case also recalls a strong maritime heritage and the opaline dial reinforces the nautical style. Finishing it off perfectly is a polished bronze bezel with a sumptuous brown aluminium insert. Like the new GMT model, the Diver White Bronze is modestly sized, with a square 42mm x 42mm case. Unlike the stainless steel case of the GMT Blue, the bronze case of the diver will patina with age, adding another level of authenticity.
Rounding out this memorable trio is another extravagant watch that challenges our perceptions of the brand. We’ve had steel and we’ve had bronze. We’ve had a watch designed for the sea and another for the sky. This final piece is different again. The BR 05 Green Gold is a 18k rose gold watch that is perfect for use on land with the smaller 40mm being highly versatile and the rich green dial presents itself as a dress watch rather than as a tool. Of course, with the square case design and familiar dial layout, we couldn’t mistake this for anything other than a Bell & Ross. But it’s more urban than the others and certainly aimed at watch aficionados who want a statement piece.
All three novelties are equipped with Bell & Ross’s automatic movements and sapphire crystals. The BR 03-93 GMT Blue and BR 05 Green Gold both have a basic water resistance of 100M. The BR 03-92 White Bronze is a legitimate diver and boasts 300M.