For the horological industry, the term ‘dive-watch’ has undergone a serious transformation. While it once represented a level of sophistication and complexity of movement, smaller brands and imitation releases have gone for a ‘style-over-substance’ approach, evoking the aesthetic but not the capabilities the watch design was originally intended for. It’s fairly commonplace now to see dive watches that have never ventured far from the shore, but for the old firms like Tudor, a true measure of success is buried deep beneath the sea.
The iconic Swiss brand has just unveiled the new titanium Pelagos FXD, a stunning dive watch that puts its money where its mouth is. The 42mm timepiece was developed in conjunction with the French Navy, crafted using the exact specifications laid down by the force’s combat swimmers, otherwise known as Commando Hubert. It follows a historic relationship with the military unit that dates back 65 years.
Naturally, the main aim of the new Tudor Pelagos FXD is safety and security, best typified by the NATO strap. In fact, the FXD in the name refers to ‘fixed strap bars’, the solid-looped lugs that have been machined together with the case from a single block of titanium.
On the actual watch itself, the new release cops a 120-notch bidirectional rotating bezel, complete with a sandblasted ceramic ring that overhangs the sides of the case. According to the brand, this allows the Commando Hubert swimmers to navigate underwater undetected to a level of 200m, if they so desire.
On the caseback, you’ll find the French Navy logo engraved alongside the letters “MN” in reference to the Marine Nationale, along with the year of issue. Best of all, Tudor has bolstered the military-grade dive watch with a COSC certified calibre MT5602, complete with a 70-hour power reserve.
For Tudor, this collaboration isn’t anything new. Since the 1950s, the brand has worked alongside the French Navy to supply accurate time-measuring equipment, even going so far as to be named the official supplier in 1961. A series of innovative watches followed, none of which were available to the public, however, the pair appears to have changed their tune.
The new Tudor Pelagos FXD is the first commercially available collaboration between the Swiss icon and the French Navy. Priced at USD$3,900, the latest piece comes with a five-year warranty and is available now.