Longines Heads to the Dark Side with ‘First Ever’ Ultra-Chron Carbon

• Swiss watchmaker Longines has unveiled the Ultra-Chron Carbon.
• Crafted from a carbon case middle with a titanium structure, it marks the first time the material has been used in a Longines watch case.
• The model weighs less than 80 grams, including both the watch and strap.
• The Ultra-Chron Carbon is powered by the exclusive Longines high-frequency calibre L.836.6 movement.
• Prices start at USD$4,900.

When Longines revived the Ultra-Chron in 2022, it heralded a new era of high-frequency domination for the Swiss luxury brand. An important step in the St Imier favourite’s quest to tackle land, sea and sky, the Ultra-Chron was the perfect blend of historical significance, modern timekeeping and timeless styling. It played very much off the look and feel of the original 1968 diver, but added a new level of sophistication and reliability that felt entirely fitting.

More than two years later, Longines has again refreshed the Ultra-Chron lineup, unveiling a stunning new timepiece that arrives with a distinctive matte-black finish. Make no mistake, the Ultra-Chron Carbon isn’t just a new addition to the fabled high-frequency range—it’s Longines’ first-ever carbon watch.

Longines Ultra-Chron Carbon Development

Introducing a new case material is no mean feat, and for a brand with a heritage as established as Longines, implementation can take time. As such, the watchmaker was meticulous with its production process, working steadily to ensure the carbon material was not only up to scratch but also mirrored the hard-working nature of the iconic diver lineup.

According to Longines, the 43mm-diameter case was crafted from strips of unidirectional carbon fibre and epoxy resin. From here, the watchmaker placed the strips into a mould before heating them to a high temperature, compressing them and finally cold-cutting them into the iconic Ultra-Chron cushion shape. The unique process, in addition to leaving each case with an entirely individual pattern, significantly reduced the overall weight of the timepiece. Longines claims the new model weighs less than 80 grams, including both the watch and strap.

Elsewhere, Longines has slightly switched up the dial design, opting for a more monochromatic finish to match the dark notes of the carbon case material. The much-loved red minute hand is gone, instead replaced by grey PVD hour and minute hands coated with a Super-LumiNova blue luminescence treatment. The titanium bezel is fixed and features an aluminium insert engraved with a scale numbered in increments of 10, while the case back and screw-down crown are also in titanium.

Precision and Accuracy

As with the 2022 edition, the latest Ultra-Chron extends Longines’ long and storied association with precision timekeeping. The carbon model is again powered by the watchmaker’s exclusive high-frequency calibre L836.6 movement, which beats at a whopping 36,000 vibrations per hour. In essence, this oscillating balance spring conducts 10 beats every second, delivering more accuracy than a standard chronometer.

Importantly, this figure is verified by Geneva-based third-party independent testing organisation, TIMELAB. As per the official ISO 3159 standards, the Ultra-Chron Carbon was subject to a rigorous 15-day testing period during which the entire watch was put through a series of functional tests in various positions, repeated at three different temperatures, 8°C, 23°C and 38°C, to confirm its accuracy. As we noted with the 2022 model, this is one watch that may well outlast us all.

Reviving an Icon

Perhaps most importantly, the latest carbon model continues the Ultra-Chron’s rich legacy of timekeeping prowess. While other models in the Longines line-up may boost stronger sales figures and greater patronage, the Ultra-Chron is arguably the watchmaker’s most significant technical piece, and its roots date back more than a century.

In 1914, Longines crafted a high-frequency stopwatch (5 Hz) complete with a split-second hand and manual counter with three pushers. The high-frequency calibre 19.73N hand-wound mechanical movement found inside featured a familiar 36,000 vibrations/h figure, marking an innovation never before seen on the commercial market.

Flash forward over half a century, and Longines finally figured out how to make the movement practically viable. The 1968 Ultra-Chron took the lessons learned from Longines’ 1914 5Hz high-frequency stopwatch and subsequent 1957 professional high-beat and split-second chronograph to create the stellar ref. 7970 wristwatch. The new Ultra-Chron Carbon may drop the burst of colour, but it more than makes up for it in the remarkable new textured case material.

Pricing and Availability

Longines has confirmed that the Ultra-Chron Carbon is not a limited edition, meaning that the timepiece will be available in both boutiques and online retail channels for the foreseeable future. The model is priced at USD$4,900 and comes fitted with a black technical fabric strap featuring a titanium buckle. Further embracing the watch’s dark tones, buyers will receive the Ultra-Chron Carbon in a bespoke black box. For more information on the Longines Ultra-Chron Carbon or the Ultra-Chron lineup, visit Longines.

Longines Ultra-Chron Carbon L2.839.4.52.2

• Brand: Longines
• Model: Ultra-Chron Carbon
• Reference: Ref. L2.839.4.52.2
• Diameter: 43mm
• Thickness: 14mm
• Movement: Calibre L836.6 high-frequency self-winding
• Power Reserve: 52 hours
• Water-Resistance: 300 metres
• Price: AUD$8,050 (USD$4,900)