When Rolex talks, the watch world listens. For Watches & Wonders 2024, the acclaimed brand has debuted a string of new pieces, headlined by a double-whammy Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II. Two new variations of the classic timepiece have been unveiled, each featuring the stunning 24-hour graduated two-colour cerachrom bezel insert in grey and black ceramic that debuted last year. This time around, however, Rolex has done the unthinkable by offering models with either an Oyster bracelet or a Jubilee bracelet. At long last, you can have a GMT-Master your way.
For decades, the GMT Master lineup has been considered one of Rolex’s most revered, spawning coveted pieces like the Batman (Ref. 126710BLNR) and the Pepsi (Ref. 126710BLRO), but it’s been a little while since we saw something different from the maison. While the 2024 updates are far from revolutionary, they do set an important precedent moving forward. With the latest releases, Rolex returns to its strengths, focusing on traveller’s watches that feel fresh and altogether familiar, at the same time.
“The GMT-Master Il is the ultimate cosmopolitan watch,” Rolex said in a press release. “Designed for professionals criss-crossing the globe, It is the successor to the GMT-Master, the original model launched in 1955.”
Design-wise, Rolex has certainly embraced the past with this new release. The ‘GMT-Master II’ inscription appears on the black lacquered dial in the brand’s signature green, a theme that is continued with the triangle-tipped 24-hours hand. Further, the typical 40mm case, which is crafted from a solid block of Oystersteel (part of the 904L steel family), makes the Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II feel very much at home amongst its stablemates, and there are other nods to the past beneath the surface.
The latest GMT-Master II models are equipped with calibre 3285, a movement that was developed and manufactured in-house in 2018. A self-winding mechanical movement, calibre 3285 is best remembered for integrating the Chronergy escapement, a nickel-phosphorus addition that is fitted with a blue Parachrom hairspring. As Rolex explains, the architecture and the escapement are the catalysts behind the movement’s stellar 70-hour power reserve.
Admittedly, exclaiming that a new Rolex model that pulls influences from the past is going to perform well is hardly going out on a limb, but the new Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II does have a few tricks up its sleeve.
The 40mm timepiece explores a more subtle and refined approach that we don’t always associate with Rolex, and the choice of Oyster or Jubilee bracelet makes for an intriguing change of pace. Both Oyster bracelet and Jubilee bracelet releases will be available at Rolex boutiques and are priced at 10,400 CHF, but you best be quick. Snagging one of these stunning new pieces will be anything but easy.
Rolex Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II
- Brand: Rolex
- Model: Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II
- Reference Number: Ref. 126710GRNR / Ref. 1267GRNR
- Diameter: 40mm
- Water Resistance: 100m
- Calibre: Calibre 3285
- Power Reserve: 70 hours
- Price: 10,400 CHF
