The Wind Up – Watch News #286

Welcome to the latest edition of The Wind Up, our weekly series where we feature the newest watches of the last seven days. In this week’s round up, Breguet reminds us why it is the master of all complications, Blancpain sets sail on a ceramic journey to the bottom of the ocean, Tudor gives us the blues and Breitling readies for an aerial assault. Enjoy the read and have a great week ahead.

Tudor Black Bay Ceramic “Blue” 

• Brand: Tudor Black Bay Ceramic “Blue” 
• Model: Black Bay Ceramic “Blue” 
• Diameter: 41mm
• Movement: MT5602-1U
• Water-Resistance: 200m
• Power Reserve: 70 hours
• Price: USD$5,150

In February, Tudor announced its return to motorsport by partnering with the new Visa Cash App RB Formula One team. To commemorate this occasion, Tudor introduced a team-exclusive version of its Master Chronometer-certified Black Bay Ceramic, featuring a blue dial that matches the team’s striking racing suit. Fans of Tudor and Formula One can now sport the same watch as drivers Daniel Ricciardo and Yuki Tsunoda on race days.

The Tudor Black Bay Ceramic “Blue” combines modern, high-tech elements with subtle nods to its rich heritage. The watch features a 41mm matte black ceramic case, a domed dial in Visa Cash App RB’s matching blue with applied hour markers, and “Snowflake” hands with Grade X1 Swiss Super-LumiNova luminescent material.

The watch is powered by the Manufacture Calibre MT5602-1U, certified by the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC) and METAS, with a silicon hairspring and a 70-hour power reserve. It comes with a hybrid leather and rubber strap with blue stitching, as well as a black fabric strap with a blue centre band, and includes a five-year transferable guarantee.

Blancpain’s New Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Models

• Brand: Blancpain
• Model: Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Quantième Complet Phases de Lune 5054
• Reference: Ref. 5054 0153 01S
• Movement: Calibre 6654.P flyback chronograph
• Diameter: 43.6mm
• Water-Resistance: 300m
• Power Reserve: 72 hours
• Price: AUD$41,400 (with ceramic bracelet) / AUD$29,300 (with sailcloth or NATO strap)

Blancpain has introduced an all-ceramic bracelet for its Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe models, which include the time-and-date, flyback chronograph, and Quantième Complet (triple calendar). Each link of the bracelet is uniquely crafted, requiring significant skilled labour, contributing to its nearly USD$8,000 price tag.

Despite the Fifty Fathoms’ historical significance in dive watch innovation, it has remained relatively understated, with the ceramic bracelet now enhancing its appeal. The bracelet, hand-finished with a brushed surface, is a rarity in the market, making ceramic bracelets uncommon. The additional cost for the bracelet brings the three-hand diver to USD$21,300, while the flyback chronograph and triple calendar are priced at USD$26,000. The bracelet is compatible with all ceramic Bathyscaphe models, which are consistent in diameter at 43.6 mm but vary in thickness.

The Bathyscaphe Quantième Complet stands out with its traditional triple calendar and moon phase complication, housed in a 43.6 mm by 14.10 mm ceramic case with the cal. 6654.P.4 movement. The Bathyscaphe Flyback Chronograph features a 43.6 mm by 15.25 mm ceramic case, complemented by a green sunburst dial and ceramic bezel, driven by the cal. F385 movement; a development renowned for its column-wheel and vertical clutch chronograph mechanism.

The base model, with time and date functionality, is encased in a 43.6 mm by 13.83 mm ceramic case, housing the cal. 1310 movement, offering a 120-hour power reserve. Each model reflects Blancpain’s commitment to high-quality craftsmanship and engineering in luxury dive watches.

Breguet Classique Double Tourbillon “Quai de l’Horloge” 5345

• Brand: Breguet
• Model: Classique Double Tourbillon “Quai de l’Horloge” 5345
• Diameter: 46mm
• Movement: 588N2
• Power Reserve: 50 hours
• Price: CHF680,000

In 2020, Breguet introduced the platinum Classique Double Tourbillon “Quai de l’Horloge” 5345, showcasing intricate technical details on its dial while employing the caseback as an artistic canvas with hand engravings of the brand’s Parisian origins. Now, a new iteration in rose gold continues this tradition, housed in a substantial 46mm diameter and 16.8mm thick case, highlighted by a tall box-shaped sapphire crystal. The watch features a modern touch with a blue rubber strap adorned with embossed Breguet logos. Artistic craftsmanship adorns every surface, with laser-engraved Roman numerals on the sapphire frame and blued steel hands contrasting against the dial.

Unlike its platinum predecessor, the rose gold model exhibits a mobile bridge in rose gold and a lower rhodium-plated mainplate, both adorned with flinqué rayonnant hand-guilloché patterns. The movement, visible through the open-worked design, showcases dual tourbillon regulators and a differential mechanism at the centre, orchestrating a mesmerizing rotation every 12 hours. Hand-chamfered and polished details enhance the aesthetic appeal, complemented by the calibre 588N2 featuring 740 components, a 2.5Hz frequency, and a 50-hour power reserve.

The back of the watch displays an engraving of Abraham-Louis Breguet’s workshop at 39 Quai de l’Horloge, Paris, using bas-relief techniques on a gold plate. Limited in production but part of the permanent collection, the rose gold Breguet Classique Double Tourbillon Quai de l’Horloge 5345 retails for CHF 680,000.

Breitling Avenger B01 Chronograph 44 Navy Editions

• Brand: Breitling
• Model: Avenger B01 Chronograph 44 Navy Editions
• Movement: Breitling 01 (Manufacture)
• Diameter: 44mm
• Power Reserve: 70 hours
• Water Resistance: 300m
• Price: AUD$14,290

Designed for jet pilots, the Avenger series is built to withstand the demanding conditions of cockpit environments with unparalleled durability. These editions pay tribute to esteemed military units: the United States Naval Academy, the Dust Devils, and the Bloodhounds of the U.S. Navy’s elite air test squadrons. However, their bold design, resilience, and functionality appeal beyond military circles. 

Each variant showcases the unit’s emblem and distinctive color scheme—red and black for the Dust Devils, gray and yellow for the Bloodhounds, and blue and gold for the U.S. Naval Academy. These features are complemented by a dedicated engraving surrounding a transparent caseback offering a view of the Breitling Manufacture Caliber 01. All models boast black ceramic cases, titanium components, and military leather straps with contrasting stitching, ensuring robustness, ergonomic grip, and resistance to corrosion, alongside a water resistance of up to 300 meters.