In the watch world, time never stands still, so allow us to catch you up on the latest news. In this edition of our regular watch column, The Wind Up, Grand Seiko celebrates 20 years of its incredible 98R spring drive collection, Piaget unveils a stunning new ceramic skeleton Polo, IWC goes back to its aviation roots, and a little-known brand (almost) steals the title of the world’s thinnest mechanical watch. It’s been a blockbuster week in the world of watches, so strap in and enjoy.
Grand Seiko Celebrates 20 Years Of The Spring Drive With Two New Pieces
When Grand Seiko first conceived the Spring Drive movement in the 1970s, the idea was to create a high-precision, mixed-used calibre. While that might sound simple, it took the brand until 2004 to fully realise that dream with the birth of the 9R movement. Now, after 20 years, Grand Seiko is celebrating that momentous occasion with two stunning new anniversary editions.
Both new Elegance Collection timepieces are inspired by the “serene beauty of the Hotaka mountain range at sunrise”, which many fans will recognise as the birthplace of all Grand Seiko Spring Drive creations. The first new edition is the Calibre 9R 20th Anniversary SBGY035, which arrives in a streamlined 38.5mm stainless steel case, adorned with a dial that looks straight out of the Japanese highlands.
According to the brand, the graduation on the dial represents sunrise over the Hotaka mountain range; a unique phenomenon that sees the area turn a vibrant red in the autumn. Inside, the manual-winding Spring Drive Caliber 9R31 powers the new release, dishing up 72 hours of power presence and an impressive accuracy of ±15 seconds per month. The latest Grand Seiko Elegance Collection Calibre 9R 20th Anniversary SBGY035 will be available in a limited edition of 700 pieces starting November 2024.
The celebrations didn’t stop there, however, with Grand Seiko also unveiling the Elegance Collection Calibre 9R 20th Anniversary SBGA499. Again featuring a vibrant red dial, this new creation is said to evoke the “brilliance of the autumnal Hotaka mountains bathed in golden morning light”. The timepiece is a more modern encapsulation of the brand’s design aesthetic and arrives complete with a copper pink recessed power-reserve indicator and a rose gold GS logo. Inside, however, Grand Seiko has back to where it all began, powering the new Ref. SBGA499 with the Calibre 9R65, the first movement in the 9R series. Like its stablemate, the new Ref. SBGA499 will hit the market in September 2024 and is limited to 1,300 pieces worldwide.
Grand Seiko Elegance Collection Calibre 9R 20th Anniversary SBGY035
- Brand: Grand Seiko
- Model: Elegance Collection Calibre 9R 20th Anniversary
- Reference: Ref. SBGY035
- Diameter: 38.5mm
- Movement: Calibre 9R31 Spring Drive
- Power Reserve: 72 hours
- Availability: Limited to 700 pieces
Grand Seiko Elegance Collection Calibre 9R 20th Anniversary SBGA499
- Brand: Grand Seiko
- Model: Elegance Collection Calibre 9R 20th Anniversary
- Reference: Ref. SBGA499
- Diameter: 40.2mm
- Movement: Calibre 9R65 Spring Drive
- Power Reserve: 72 hours
- Water-Resistance: 100 metres
- Availability: Limited to 1,300 pieces
Konstantin Chaykin ThinKing
- Brand: Konstantin Chaykin
- Model: ThinKing
- Reference: K.23-0
- Diameter: 40mm x 1.85mm
- Movement: K.23-0
- Power Reserve: 32 hours
Over the years, we’ve seen no shortage of brands battling to take the title of the world’s thinnest watch. Piaget, Bulgari and Richard Mille have already, at one time or another, laid claim to the throne, but now a new challenger has entered the fold. Independent Konstantin Chaykin has stepped up to the plate, unveiling the ThinKing, a stunning mechanical watch that is just 1.65mm thick.
Importantly, the ThinKing remains a prototype, so it isn’t officially the record holder, but there’s no doubting watchmaker Konstantin Chaykin is one to keep an eye on. This new release boasts many of the hallmarks we’d expect to see on a premier novelty, including an integrated movement, which has been expertly adorned so as to reduce overall size. This K.23-0 movement can reportedly serve up 32 hours of power reserve and is wound by a key or a special carrying case that can also automatically wind the movement. At 40mm in diameter, the ultra-thin timepiece still makes an impression on the wrist, not that it should come as a surprise.
Konstantin Chaykin has quietly amassed a significant following in the watch community, namely for his unique brand of playful haute horology. Timepieces such as the Joker, which feature sub-dials and complications arranged to look like a human face, have helped to showcase the independent brand’s focus on fun and the ThinKing follows that same pattern. Here, the displays for hours and minutes are positioned to appear as ‘Eyes’, while a ‘Smile’ is engraved into the steel case front. It’s brash, bold and, most importantly, remarkably thin, which should be enough to reignite the watch industry’s battle of the bulge.
IWC Pilot’s Watch Mark XX Patrouille Suisse
- Brand: IWC
- Model: Pilot’s Watch Mark XX Patrouille Suisse
- Reference: IW328209
- Diameter: 40mm
- Movement: Calibre 32111
- Water-Resistance: 100m
- Power Reserve: 120 hours
- Price: AUD$10,500 (Limited to 250 pieces)
Iconic watchmaker IWC has gone back to its aviation roots, unveiling a new Pilot’s Watch Mark XX to celebrate the 60th anniversary of the Patrouille Suisse, the Swiss Air Force acrobatic team. Simple and straightforward, this latest timepiece is the ideal embodiment of the traditional Pilot’s Watch, complete with an ultra-legible dial and a stunning brushed slate grey dial.
At 40mm, the release is slightly smaller than the novelties we’ve seen from IWC in recent years, however, it does take some influence from the more current models. The Pilot’s Watch Mark XX Patrouille Suisse is crafted from matte blasted titanium, a favourite for IWC due to its increased durability and lightweight properties. Inside, the timepiece boasts an automatic Calibre 32111 movement, which the brand explains is based on the ValFleurier movement and offers a substantial 120-hour power reserve. Further, it features a screw-in crown, a convex sapphire crystal with an anti-reflective coating, and a water resistance of up to 100 metres.
Best of all, the caseback is engraved with the Patrouille Suisse emblem, which is a nifty little addition for anyone who loves aviation history. Priced at AUD$10,500, the IWC Pilot’s Watch Mark XX Patrouille Suisse is just about the ultimate aviation timepiece and a worry homage to the celebrated Swiss aerobatic team.
Piaget Polo Skeleton Ceramic
- Brand: Piaget
- Model: Polo Skeleton Ceramic
- Reference: Ref. G0A49011
- Diameter: 42mm
- Movement: Piaget 1200S
- Water-Resistance: 50m
- Power Reserve: 44 hours
- Price: AUD$69,500
At long last, Piaget has dipped into the world of ceramic for its much-loved Polo Skeleton collection. The latest timepiece, again arriving in 42mm, is an ultra-sleek interpretation of arguably the brand’s most famous release, replete with modern complications and exquisite finishing. With this edition, the ceramic works to give the Polo a new aesthetic, slightly edgier and more refined than previous models. As you would expect, however, this model retains the openworked dial, giving viewers a sneak peek at the the ultra-thin 1200S1 self-winding movement beneath.
At just 3.4 mm thick and with a power reserve of around 44 hours, this movement remains one of Piaget’s most remarkable achievements. Intricate and dazzling, the inner workings of the Polo Skeleton are almost as visually impressive as the timepiece itself. The perfect blend of modern craftsmanship and traditional expertise, the new Piaget Polo Skeleton Ceramic is further proof that Piaget is back in a big way.
Cartier Debuts Stunning New Boutique in Perth
Cartier has expanded its Australian presence, unveiling a stunning new boutique in the heart of the Perth CBD. The new showroom, located on the ground floor of the heritage-listed Fauldings Building at 307 Murray Street, marks the maison’s first in Western Australia and borrows much of its design language from sister venues in New South Wales, Victoria and Queensland.
Conceived by Paris-based Architects Studio Parisien, the latest Perth boutique is a fusion of Western Australian and French motifs. The moment you enter, you are greeted by Cartier’s iconic panther, which has been playfully incorporated into the signature feature wall. A tactile custom artwork crafted from jacquard fabric, the wall depicts the panther overlooking a rugged and dusty terrain replete with flora and fauna native to Western Australia.
Importantly, the new Cartier Perth boutique takes guests deep inside the brand’s unique world, going beyond simply the known products. Across 300 square metres of real estate, the boutique showcases a stellar collection of the maison’s timepieces, jewellery, leather goods, fragrances and gifts. There is even a semi-open lounge where you can relax and an additional VIP salon adjoining.
“It is a pleasure to unveil the newest enhancement of the Cartier network in Australia, our vibrant Perth boutique,” Thomas Crye, managing director of Cartier Oceania said. “We believe the boutique’s showcase of creativity, craftsmanship, and savoir-faire with a distinctly Australian touch will inspire our clients to discover the Cartier universe. We look forward to welcoming our clients in Perth, and offering them a unique experience full of beauty.”
The new Cartier Perth boutique opened to the public on August 27. Located at 307 Murray Street in Perth, the showroom is available from 10am Monday to Saturday and from 11am on Sunday.
