In the watch world, time never stands still, so allow us to catch you up on the latest news. In this edition of our regular watch column, The Wind Up, Blancpain drops two new variations of its stunning Air Command timepiece, Audemars Piguet debuts a futuristic take on the Royal Oak and Arnold & Son proves the power of a double tourbillon. It’s been a blockbuster week in the world of watches, so strap in and enjoy.
Blancpain Air Command
Blancpain is perhaps best known for its work at depth; however, this year, the brand has debuted two new variations of its stellar aviation timepiece, the Air Command. Fitted with a flyback chronograph movement, the new Blancpain Air Command releases are very much inspired by the original 1950s model, which was introduced in extremely limited quantities and quickly became a cult favourite.
For the 2024 models, Blancpain has introduced a Camouflage model and for the first time, an Air Command on a titanium bracelet. Both editions are available in either 36.2mm or 42.5mm diameters, with a sporty aesthetic typified by the satin-brushed and polished grade 23 titanium case material. As an aviation watch lover, I really enjoy the addition of the bidirectional titanium countdown-type bezel, as it adds a touch of nostalgic design to what would otherwise be a fairly faithful recreation. This bezel comes with a ceramic insert as well as luminescent numerals and markers, enhancing the legibility and again drawing attention to Blancpain’s fantastic design language.
Inside the 42.5mm models, you’ll find the calibre Calibre F388B, a solid addition capable of producing 50 hours of power reserve. On the 36.2mm models, Blancpain has opted for the calibre F188B, which offers 40 hours. Both are distinguished by their flyback function, which enables the wearer to reset the current timing operation and begin a new one with a single press. This feature, combined with the rotating bezel’s countdown function and tachymeter scale for measuring speed in kilometres per hour simply add to the Air Command’s credibility in the sky. Throw in the 18K gold rotor visible through the transparent case back that is shaped like a vintage aircraft propeller, and you’ve got a timepiece that reaches bold new heights.
The Blancpain Air Command Camouflage is available in either 36.2mm or 42.5mm editions, priced at AUD$32,700 and AUD$34,800, respectively. The Titanium Blue model is priced at AUD$33,900 for the 36.2mm model and AUD$36,000 for the 42.5mm version.
Blancpain Air Command Camouflage Green
- Brand: Blancpain
- Model: Air Command Camouflage Green
- Reference: Ref. AC02-12B53-63 / Ref. AC03-12B53-63
- Diameter: 36.2mm / 42.5mm
- Thickness: 11.50mm / 13.77mm
- Movement: Calibre F188B / Calibre F388B
- Power Reserve: 40 hours / 50 hours
- Water-Resistance: 30 metres
- Price: AUD$32,700 / AUD$34,800
Blancpain Air Command Titanium
- Brand: Blancpain
- Model: Air Command Titanium
- Reference: Ref. AC02-12B40-98S / Ref. AC03-12B40-98S
- Diameter: 36.2mm / 42.5mm
- Thickness: 11.50mm / 13.77mm
- Movement: Calibre F188B / Calibre F388B
- Power Reserve: 40 hours / 50 hours
- Water-Resistance: 30 metres
- Price: AUD$33,900 / AUD$36,000
Hamilton Khaki Field Murph 38mm
- Brand: Hamilton
- Model: Khaki Field Murph 38mm
- Reference Number: H70405710
- Diameter: 38mm x 11.10mm
- Water Resistance: 100m
- Calibre: Calibre H-10
- Power Reserve: 80 hours
- Price: CHF870
The Hamilton Khaki Field Murph has gained a cult-like following ever since it was released alongside the 2014 blockbuster. Now it’s back, with a crisp white dial, fauxtina hands and hour indices, and in a smaller 38mm case size. To the untrained eye, the Hamilton Khaki Field Murph 38mm looks like any other mechanical watch. Which it is, to an extent. Hamilton really nailed the proportions of the case, but the focal point here is that dial.
Where white can go one of many ways, with the Hamilton Khaki Field Murph 38mm it only went the right way. It features a matte-like grainy surface and pairs beautifully with the cathedral hands, filled with vintage-esque SuperLuminova. The bold Arabic numerals receive the same treatment, giving the Hamilton Khaki Field Murph 38mm a very authentic aged look. Big fan!
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Split-Seconds Chronograph
- Brand: Audemars Piguet
- Model: Royal Oak Concept Split-Seconds Chronograph
- Reference: Ref. 26650FO.OO.D353CA.01
- Diameter: 43mm
- Thickness: 17.4mm
- Movement: Selfwinding Calibre 4407
- Power Reserve: 70 hours
- Price: On request
Audemars Piguet’s quest to squeeze every possible complication into one exquisite timepiece has taken a huge leap forward with the unveiling of the Royal Oak Concept Split-Seconds Chronograph. An innovation for the Swiss watchmaking icon the latest 43mm timepiece is crafted from a brand-new coloured forged carbon, which was developed in AP’s workshops using Chroma Forged Technology (CFT). By doing so, the brand was able to colour the carbon fibres directly instead of the resin. The result is an ultra-light forged carbon case that features blue luminescent pigments and is complemented by a black ceramic bezel, crown, push-pieces and caseback.
“Audemars Piguet was the first brand to introduce forged carbon to watchmaking in 2007,” Lucas Raggi, research and development director at Audemars Piguet said. “After five years of research and development, we are proud to present a brand-new generation of forged carbon, which can be coloured while retaining its excellent mechanical properties.”
Futuristic by nature, the stunning new design offers a unique take on Audemars Piguet’s emblematic Royal Oak collection and it has a movement to match. The timepiece comes equipped with the Calibre 4407, which combines a flyback chronograph, split-seconds, GMT and a large date, alongside a non-magnetic balance spring with Breguet overcoil.
To me, the split-seconds mechanism is the real kicker here, with AP’s new addition able to measure intermediate time intervals that can be stopped independently of the chronograph hand when the dedicated pusher is activated. When the latter is pressed again, it catches up to the running hand, making for a seamless timekeeping process. Audemars Piguet has yet to confirm the official pricing for the Royal Oak Concept Split-Seconds Chronograph, however, you can bet this one won’t be going for anything less than six figures.
Arnold & Son Double Tourbillon Charoite Edition
- Brand: Arnold & Son
- Model: Double Tourbillon Charoite Edition
- Reference: Ref. 1DTAW.Z06A.C289W
- Diameter: 43.5mm
- Movement: Calibre A&S8513 hand-wound mechanical
- Power Reserve: 90 hours
- Water-Resistance: 30 metres
- Price: CHF 227,100 (AUD$390,000)
No stranger to one-off masterpieces, Arnold & Son has once again proven its credentials in the tourbillon space, unveiling the stunning Double Tourbillon Charoite Edition. Crafted from 18-carat white gold, the latest timepiece is an exploration of textures and motifs, elegantly set on a Charoite-coloured dial that feels almost too beautiful to believe.
The delicate mauve colourway is adorned with fine white veins, offering a unique visual aid to the timepiece’s remarkable double tourbillon grand complication. As Arnold & Son explained, Charoite is the product of a rich and textured coalition of different minerals, representing “one of the most complex stones ever formed by the Earth’s crust” courtesy of a unique chemical composition that includes silicate containing traces of aluminium, iron, manganese, barium and strontium. It’s a truly incredible foundation to build upon and Arnold & Son did not disappoint.
Double Tourbillon White Gold displays local time on the subdial at 12 o’clock, punctuated by Roman numerals, and is complemented by a display of the time in another location at 6 o’clock, using Arabic numerals. According to the watchmaker, the two dials display hours and minutes that are completely independent and accurate to the minute. Continuing the white gold theme, the two tourbillons are secured to a three-dimensional, skeletonised, cantilevered bridge in the precious metal at the end of a double-gear train. Powering the whole work of art is the A&S8513 calibre, which arrives equipped with two barrels, two crowns and two time zones. It is, to say the very least, an incredible feat of engineering.
Jaeger-LeCoultre’s High Horology Heavyweights
Jaeger-LeCoultre released two super exclusive, super complicated works of art in the Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Hybris Artistica Calibre 184 and the Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Hybris Artistica Calibre 945 ‘Dragon’. Both are made in a limited run of only 5 pieces, with each model being the product of the Jaeger’s disposition to literally mic-drop. The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Hybris Artistica Calibre 184 boasts a 1,052-component movement comprised of a spherical tourbillon, a perpetual calendar and a minute repeater which plays the Westminster melody.
And the Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Hybris Artistica Calibre 945 ‘Dragon’ has a cosmotourbillon which makes a revolution of the dial in one sideral day, along with some insanely meticulous finishing on the case and two hand-engraved solid-gold dragons that look like they’re chasing the tourbillon. Each model is, in its own right, a work of art. And each reference is, without question, an ode to the watchmakers’ watchmaker.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Hybris Artistica Calibre 184
- Brand: Jaeger-LeCoultre
- Model: Master Hybris Artistica Calibre 945 ‘Dragon’
- Reference: Ref. Q5253470
- Diameter: 43mm
- Movement: Manually-wound Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 184
- Power Reserve: 50 hours
- Water-Resistance: 50 metres
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Hybris Artistica Calibre 945 ‘Dragon’
- Brand: Arnold & Son
- Model: Double Tourbillon Charoite Edition
- Reference: Ref. Q52624A3
- Diameter: 45mm
- Movement: Manual mechanical Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 945
- Power Reserve: 40 hours
- Water-Resistance: 50 metres
