Welcome back to the latest edition of the Wind Up, our weekly series featuring the newest watch releases of the past seven days. Perhaps not as busy this week as it was last, the world was still lucky enough to find out that a few name brands had unveiled a handful of interesting watches. Seiko unveiled a new chronograph, Girard-Perregaux jumped on the green bandwagon and Jaquet Droz dropped another almighty spectacle of superlative finishing. Enjoy!
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The Wind Up – Watch News #235
Jaquet Droz Dragon Automaton
Jaquet Droz has teamed up with John Howe, the artistic designer of ‘The Lord of the Rings’ and ‘The Hobbit’ trilogies, to create its latest automaton timepiece. Focusing on a dragon which has nine distinct automatons, with the Jaquet Droz Dragon Automaton’s spine, tail, eyes, jaw, tongue, crest and claws moving in a random sequence that is absolutely spell-binding. Each piece will be made unique to the buyer, so while this isn’t exactly a unique piece, each watch will be in a way different from the other models in the collection. Jaquet Droz does some brilliant work, making arguably some of the world’s most spectacular automaton timepieces. Can’t wait to see this in action!
Brand: Jaquet Droz
Model: Dragon Automaton
Reference Number: J0327330041
Water Resistance: 30 metres
Power Reserve: 38 hours
Price: Price on application
Longines Master Collection
Swiss watchmaker Longines dipped back into the archive book for three new releases this week, unveiling a Longines Marks 190 Masterful Years with Stunning New Master Collection Models. The timepieces celebrate the Maison’s 190th anniversary, echoing the very sentiments that make the Swiss luxury brand so successful. Slim profile with streamlined dial and layout, the new Longines Master Collection watches are traditional in nature, but with a distinctly modern inner-working.
At 40mm wide and only 9.35mm thick, this is a seriously wearable watch that slides smoothly under a shirt cuff. The standard model sports a stainless steel case, while the two limited editions come in 18K gold and Rose gold – both are numbered with only 190 available of each. The dials are exquisite, forged from distinctive grained anthracite. The standard stainless steel variation has a sandblasted silver dial and delicately engraved Arabic numerals along with elegant blue steel hands that provide a touch of colour to an otherwise traditional design.
Case: Stainless Steel, 18-Carat Gold and 18-Carat Rose Gold
Movement: Automatic Calibre L888.5
Glass: Sapphire Crystal
Straps: Anthracite Alligator Strap
Water Resistance: 30M
Girard-Perregaux Laureato 42 Green
Girard-Perregaux has ventured into the green yonder with the latest reference. It features the same 42mm by 10.68mm stainless steel satin-finished case, the same distinct octagonal bezel, the same polished interlinks on the stainless steel bracelet and the same brilliant in-house GP01800-2035 automatic movement. But what’s different here is that gorgeous Clous de Paris patterned dial now being finished in sunray green. But this is no ordinary green. This is a deep, thick and lush green that changes shades depending on the way the light hits it. It’s a gorgeous green, supple yet rich. Seriously one of the most beautiful green dials around. Amazing stuff.
Model: Laureato 42 Green
Reference Number: 81010-11-3153-1CM
Water Resistance: 100 metres
Power Reserve: 54 hours
Seiko Speedtimer Chronograph
Seiko unveiled its latest flex with the new Speedtimer Chronograph. Paying homage to the 1969 Speedtimer, the new 2022 Speedtimer Chronograph is a lovely, romantic and fascinating mechanical chronograph. Interestingly enough, the 1969 Speedtimer was one of the first automatic chronographs, powered by the legendary Calibre 6139. This movement was the first to have both a column wheel and a vertical clutch, reducing the error rate and improving precision.
A generation later and the heritage and innovation that the 1969 Speedtimer had has now been given a new lease on life with the Speedtimer Chronograph. It features a lovely ever-changing blue dial, exposed and lengthened chronograph pushers and perhaps most importantly the Calibre 8R46. Like the Calibre 6139, the Calibre 8R46 has a column wheel and a vertical clutch mechanism (where the vertical clutch eliminates shuddering or jumping of the hands to improve measurement accuracy and the column wheel ensures precise control of the chronograph operation). It costs a pretty penny but buying the equivalent from a Swiss brand will cost you double, easily.
Model: Prospex Speedtimer Chronograph
Reference Number: SRQ043
Water Resistance: 100 metres
Power Reserve: 45 hours
Arnold & Son Luna Magna Ultimate II
Arnold & Son has revealed its latest pièce de résistance, the Luna Magna. This is an interesting, celestial timepiece that accounts for the moon phase requiring only one correction every 122 years. It features a 44mm white gold case encrusted with 112 baguette-cut diamonds (totalling approximately 5.90 ct), has a lagoon-blue PVD-treated ruthenium crystal dial, a while opal hour and minute sub-dial, and a beautiful white gold moon in an aperture at the bottom of the dial.
Powering the Arnold & Son Luna Magna Ultimate II is the in-house calibre A&S1021. This is a hand-wound movement that has an astronomical 3D moon phase indicator as well as a secondary age of the moon indicator on the movement which requires a one-day correction every 122 years. The strap is also worth mentioning. It’s made from lagoon-blue alligator leather with raspberry alligator lining, and has a white gold pin buckle with 26 baguette-cut diamonds on it. Spectacular.
Brand: Arnold & Son
Model: Arnold & Son Luna Magna Ultimate II
Reference Number: 1LMM.WZ04A.C213A
Water Resistance: 30 metres
Power Reserve: 90 hours
If you enjoyed The Wind Up and would like to continue reading about watches, you can head on over to my blog, Haulogerie, where I delve a bit deeper into the wonderful world of horology.
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