Welcome to the next instalment of our regular series focusing on anything and everything even remotely associated watches, The Wind Up! This is an exciting instalment, because not only do we have some pretty amazing watches we’re going to feature, but also because it’s our 50th episode. Now that certainly is cause for celebration by way of a drink or three. So as always gents, sit back, relax, and enjoy!
Glashütte Original Senator Excellence Perpetual Calendar
Try as we might to change the fact, unfortunately the watch world can be a bit of a bore sometimes. It tends to drag on a bit, especially around this time of the year, and the offerings from both the mainstream manufacturers and the little guys can all seem a bit lacklustre. But then something comes along to reinvigorate the market, and at the same time shake you out of your cryptic state. The watch that gave me a bit of a buzz was the Senator Excellence Perpetual Calendar from Glashütte Original. Sitting at 42mm in width and just under 13mm in height, the in either stainless steel or red gold, the Senator Excellence Perpetual Calendar is a remarkable watch that does more than just represent a brand that is often shadowed by a certain somebody in the German watchmaking game. The scattered look of the dial may throw you off momentarily, but once you get your bearings and realise that it is actually quite systematic, any nuances of OCD-like behaviours should dissipate as quickly as it arose. As the name implies, this is indeed a fully fledged perpetual calendar, and while the calibre 36-02 may not be as intricately detailed as something from Lange, its 100-hour power reserve and super high chronometry standards will more than suffice. Precise and exquisite.
Ulysse Nardin Marine Chronometer Annual Calendar Monaco
To celebrate the continued sponsorship of the Monaco Yacht Show, Ulysse Nardin have released a limited edition 100-piece run of the Marine Chronometer Annual Calendar. As far as functional complications go, annual calendars are right up there with the best of them. Their simple directives are applicable to what we need on a day to day basis: time-telling, day, date and month. If you don’t know the year off the top of your head, then purchasing a watch should be the last thing on your agenda. The Marine Chronometer Annual Calendar Monaco doesn’t show the day, but the depiction of the date should more than do. The dial of the Marine Chronometer Annual Calendar Monaco is simplistic in nature, but given its complexities and the amount of information it’s actually showing at any one time, it’s remarkable how clean it looks. Ulysse Nardin is a forward-thinking brand that brings together the best of both worlds: contemporary watchmaking and traditional values. Definitely a recipe for success.
Roger Dubuis Excalibur Aventador S
To celebrate the coming together of two of the world’s most revolutionary, most exclusive and most performance-driven brands, it’s only logical to create a timepiece to commemorate such a momentous occasion. Enter the Excalibur Aventador S, a celebratory piece made in partnership between one of horology’s most insane ateliers, Roger Dubuis, and one of the most iconic car manufacturers in the world, Lamborghini. Okay, let’s jump straight in. At 45mm in width and over 14mm in height, this is one big watch. And it’s big for a reason. You don’t go out and buy a Roger Dubuis, or for that matter, a Lamborghini, to be subtle. No. You buy it to be seen. So you can tell people exactly who you are without saying a word. The Excalibur Aventador S is that exact statement piece you need. It comes in two versions: yellow highlights (limited to 88 pieces); and orange highlights (limited to 8 pieces). The movement of the watch looks like the engine bay of the Aventador, and the face of the watch is what we’ve come to expect from Roger Dubuis. Very loud, very aggressive, and very disruptive. And exactly why I love it.
NOMOS Red Dot
Another celebratory piece, and created to mark the second anniversary of the cooperation between The Hour Glass and NOMOS Glashütte, the NOMOS Red Dot is a brilliant little worldtimer that features a beautiful salmon-coloured dial sitting in a super polished stainless steel case. This watch brings about feelings of warmth and dependability. It has a sort of vintage vibe to it, and unlike a lot of other worldtimers, it doesn’t seem like it’s trying too hard to grab your attention. And to be quite frank with you, it doesn’t have to. Its looks easily surpass my expectations. When I first got wind of this piece, I couldn’t have in my wildest imagination thought it’d look as good as it does. It has been put together exceptionally well, and while the warmness of the dial may be too humbling for many a collector, the overall feel of the watch really does tick all of the right boxes for me. Limited to only 15-pieces worldwide, the Red Dot is a gorgeous timepiece that really brings to light just how capable NOMOS are as an independent watchmaking manufacturer.
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Tourbillon Chronograph Openworked Material Good
Okay, this is huge. Not dimensionally speaking, but in terms of collaborations, this is just immense. I’ve long been an admirer, adorer and lover of Audemars Piguet. I lied. I’m a fanatic. They’re easily one of my favourite watchmaking ateliers, and I’m instantly intrigued in anything they do. Their Royal Oak Offshore line has an abundance of collaborative and limited edition pieces, but their Royal Oak collection is quite exclusive in that respect. But all that changed with their latest and greatest: the Royal Oak Tourbillon Chronograph Openworked Material Good. Made in partnership with Material Good, a very prominent and well-known boutique in New York City, the Royal Oak Tourbillon Chronograph Openworked Material Good is a monster of a watch, and it’s one that I am absolutely drooling over. This openworked masterpiece is available in two precious metals: titanium and pink gold. And while my preference of all gold-types would be red gold, by heart is giving in to the titanium version. Far more wearable, far more versatile and to a lesser extent it kind of looks better. Either option of course is fine, with each housing a sublime calibre 2936, a hand-wound calibre comprised of a tourbillon and a chronograph. This is as good as it will get from AP’s Royal Oak. Yes, that is a dare for them to come up with something better. And if not, I’d be more than happy to settle with this. J
If you enjoyed The Wind Up and would like to continue reading about watches, you can head on over to my blog, Haulogerie, where I delve a bit deeper into the wonderful world of watches.