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The Lowdown:
From novelties that shocked the world to mid-tier favourites that offered enormous value for money, the best watches of 2024 were a mixed bag, and we were there to cover them all.
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Make no mistake, 2024 was always meant to be a landmark year on the watch calendar. With Longines celebrating 70 years of the iconic Conquest lineup and OMEGA counting down the days until the Paris 2024 Olympics, watch fans were at a fever pitch before the year even began, but no one could have predicted what came next. While the world’s eyes were set on the spectacle of sports, pioneering aviation-focused brand IWC Schaffhausen swooped the pack, releasing a Portugieser Eternal Calendar capable of a whopping 45 million years of accuracy. But that wasn’t all.
From novelties that shocked the world to mid-tier favourites that offered enormous value for money, the best watches of 2024 were a mixed bag, and we were there to cover them all. As the year draws to a close, we’ve unpacked the very best, charting the top drops from Seiko, TAG Heuer, OMEGA and more in order of release.
Best Watch Releases of 2024
Our list of the best watch releases of 2024 includes the following.
- Best Dive Watch: Tudor Pelagos FXD GMT ‘Zulu Time’
- Best Dress Watch: Longines Conquest Heritage Central Power Reserve
- Best Novelty: Jaeger-LeCoultre Duometre Heliotourbillon Perpetual
- Best Value: Seiko Prospex Alpinist Australasian Limited Edition
Now we’ve rounded up our favourites, let’s check out the full list.
Longines Conquest Heritage Central Power Reserve
- Brand: Longines
- Model: Conquest Heritage Central Power Reserve
- Reference: L1.648.4.78.2/L1.648.4.62.2/L1.648.4.52.2
- Diameter: 38mm
- Thickness: 19mm
- Calibre: Exclusive Longines Calibre L896.5 mechanical self-winding movement
- Power Reserve: 72 hours
- Water-Resistance: 50m
- Price: AUD$6,325
Released at the very beginning of the year, the Longines Conquest Heritage Central Power Reserve set the tone for what would be a remarkable 12 months for the St Imier favourite’s signature collection. The first in a long line of releases aimed at commemorating the Conquest’s 70th anniversary, the Central Power Reserve took inspiration from 1959’s Conquest automatic ref.9028, incorporating the delightful, albeit rather unusual, functional power reserve indicator at the centre of the dial.
With this addition—and indeed all power reserve indicators—you can conveniently and easily view the watch’s remaining running time at a glance, but what makes things interesting is how Longines brought it to life. The brand implemented a dual-rotating disc design, with the power reserve indicator on the central uncoiling disc.
In the shape of a baton widened at the top, it indicates the movement depletion level on the external coiling disc, counting down from ‘64’ to ‘0’. When you rewind the timepiece by turning the crown or moving your wrist, the coiling discs rotate, and the remaining power reserve is reflected on the dial. As I noted when it was first released, the design speaks directly to Longines’ long-documented history of rotating disc construction, dating back as far as the late 1920s, but this one does feel special.
The 38mm diameter lands perfectly in the vintage-inspired range, with the 12 yellow-gold coloured, rose gold-coloured or silver-coloured applied faceted hour makers only adding to the refined mid-century aesthetics. Inside, the exclusive L896.5 calibre in-house movement steers the ship and gives some modern sensibility to an otherwise heritage-heavy piece.
To me, the Longines Conquest Heritage Central Power Reserve is perhaps the best example of a watchmaker paying tribute to its back catalogue without dipping into recreation territory. There are enough bells and whistles to make this watch feel new while embodying the classic design codes for which Longines has become synonymous. It is, to put it lightly, the benchmark for modern class.
Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Retrograde Day-Date
- Brand: Vacheron Constantin
- Model: Patrimony Moon Phase Retrograde Date
- Reference Number: Ref. 4010U/000G-H070
- Diameter: 42.5mm
- Movement: Mechanical, self-winding calibre 2460 R31L
- Power Reserve: 42 hours
There was no shortage of remarkable and note-worthy timepieces that debuted at Watches & Wonders this year, but Vacheron Constantin’s Patrimony Retrograde Day-Date was my undisputed favourite. There is just something so refined and luxurious about the silvered dial and moon phase combination; the classic design language simply transcends trends.
Introduced alongside two Manual-Winding models, the Patrimony Moon Phase Retrograde Date arrived in a stunning 42.5mm 18-carat white gold case. It is powered by the self-winding Calibre 2460 R31L, an in-house movement responsible for powering two complications.
The first is a moon-phase indication in an aperture at 6 o’clock, graduated to correspond precisely to the moon’s cycle of 29 days, 12 hours and 45 minutes. According to Vacheron Constantin, this precision moon phase requires just one correction every 122 years. The second consists of a retrograde date display in the upper part of the dial, which fans of the brand will recognise as a signature stylistic choice. As I mentioned at the time, this release brings a profound sense of ceremony to an otherwise over-complicated world. It was quintessential Vacheron Constantin and I simply can’t get enough of it.
Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon
- Brand: Piaget
- Model: Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon
- Reference Number:
- Diameter: 41.5mm
- Thickness: 2mm
- Water Resistance: 30m
- Calibre: 970P-UC, one-minute peripheral tourbillon
- Power Reserve: 60 hours
Piaget has been locked in a battle of the bulge for a few years now, taking on Richard Mille and Bulgari for haute horology supremacy. And while the traditional watchmaking circles are divided, tourbillon honours now firmly belong to Piaget. At Watches & Wonders this year, the brand unveiled the Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon, the world’s thinnest tourbillon watch.
Measuring just 2mm thick, the timepiece features an entirely redesigned case and movement, representing one of the most intricate developments in watchmaking history. For the Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon, Piaget repurposed the case back as the movement’s main plate. From there, the crown was integrated into the case band, meaning it could only be pulled out and operated using a dedicated tool, ensuring that no space was wasted.
The result is an intricately designed and flawlessly manufactured timepiece that bears the hallmarks of innovation. Like the original 9P calibre that set the wheels in motion more the 65 years ago, the Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon charts a new course for ultra-thin watches. At 41.5mm in diameter, the deep blue treated cobalt alloy model is bold and brash enough to make a statement front on, but from the side, it’s almost transparent.
Perhaps most impressive of all, the Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon boasts a working power reserve of 40 hours. Representatives told me this was achieved by utilising ball bearings instead of pivots, which made it easier for the mobile elements to rotate, decreasing friction and allowing the watchmakers to achieve an even thinner result.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Duometre Heliotourbillon Perpetual
- Brand: Jaeger-LeCoultre
- Model: Duometre Heliotourbillon Perpetual
- Reference: Ref. 6202420
- Movement: Manually-wound Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 388
- Diameter: 44mm
- Water-Resistance: 30m
- Power Reserve: 50 hours for each barrel
- Availability: Limited to 20 pieces
- Price: 400,000 Euros (Roughly AUD$650,000)
Arguably the most impressive release to debut at Watches & Wonders this year, the Duometre Heliotourbillon Perpetual sees iconic watchmaker Jaeger-LeCoultre at its very best. Fusing precision craftsmanship with cutting-edge technology, the 2024 novelty was powered by the calibre 388 and introduced an entirely new tourbillon configuration that rotates on three axes to create a ‘spinning top’ effect.
According to the brand, this was achieved through the use of three titanium cages, each set at a different degree, that complete rotation in 30 and 60 seconds respectively. Each cage structure was supported with ceramic ball bearings, a decision that minimised friction and reduced the weight to less than 0.7 grams, despite its 163 components.
While I could gush over the frankly ludicrous number of functions and complications (I already did that), the important thing to call out is simply how perfect this timepiece is. It looks incredible, it can do almost everything, and it is entirely unlike anything I have ever seen before. From the moment I saw it in Geneva, I knew this was going to be something special, and in the months that have passed, I often find myself thinking about this exact watch. If I ever win the lottery, I know where I’ll be heading first.
Grand Seiko Manual-Winding Mechanical Hi-Beat 36000 80 Hours Limited Edition
- Brand: Grand Seiko
- Model: Evolution 9 Collection
- Reference: Ref. SLGW002 / Ref. SLGW003
- Movement: Manual winding Caliber 9SA4
- Diameter: 38.6mm
- Water-Resistance: 30m
- Power Reserve: 80 hours
- Price: AUD$67,200 (SLGW002) / AUD$15,950 (SLGW003)
Another favourite from Watches & Wonders, Grand Seiko’s Manual Winding Limited Editions offer a welcomed departure from the overly clutter dial high-complications that have largely dictated the industry in recent times. While they undoubtedly took significant inspiration from Grand Seiko’s manually wound 10-beat movements of the late ‘60s, the limited-edition SLGW002 and SLGW003 models introduced an all-new Calibre 9SA4 hand-wound high-beat movement that featured Dual Impulse Escapement and two barrels.
This movement resembled the previous 9SA5 but was updated with a redesigned and reconstructed base movement designed to improve the feel and accuracy when winding. Best of all, it still felt like an Evolution 9-piece.
The classic dress watch aesthetic, which is generally overlooked at Watches & Wonders, was on full display, best typified by the straightforward dial layout and uncompleted indexes. The titanium model, in particular, was a perfect example of not messing with the formula and keeping the design cues fittingly close to home. Conversely, the limited edition model arrived with a case and clasp made of 18-carat rose gold, giving just a touch of razzle-dazzle, which never goes astray.
IWC Schaffhausen Portugieser Eternal Calendar
- Brand: IWC Schaffhausen
- Model: Portugieser Eternal Calendar
- Reference: Ref. IW505701
- Diameter: 44.4mm
- Thickness: 14.9mm
- Movement: 52640 Calibre automatic
- Power Reserve: 168 hours
- Water-Resistance: 50m
- Price: CHF 150,000
Some watches have to be seen to be believed. Others, like the Portugieser Eternal Calendar from IWC Schaffhausen, still don’t make sense even after you’ve witnessed them. Unveiled at Watches & Wonders this year, the unique timepiece represented a bold new frontier for IWC, drifting firmly into the world of quantum mechanics, all while maintaining a trademark design flair. Allow me to (attempt to) explain.
The IWC Schaffhausen Portugieser Eternal Calendar features a newly developed reduction gear that tackles the Gregorian calendar’s ridiculously complex leap-year exception rules. Developed after assessing the data of a whopping 22 trillion simulations, the reduction gear train was integrated into the confined space of the watch’s eternal calendar module. According to the brand, this new function will only deviate from the moon’s orbit by one day after 45 million years, meaning the Eternal Calendar will stay accurate in this lifetime and the next.
If that sounds ridiculous, it is. With this release, IWC took the concept of moon phase planning and dialled it up to 11, introducing a mechanism that is so complex it almost renders itself redundant. Perhaps more impressively, the watch itself looks stunning. Despite boasting enough functions to make a Casio scientific calculator sick, the Portugieser Eternal Calendar boats an uncluttered dial configuration, intricately finished platinum case, box-glass sapphire crystal and the brand’s signature Double Moon indication.
TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph
- Brand: TAG Heuer
- Model: Carrera Chronograph
- Reference: CBS2216.BA0041
- Diameter: 39.00 mm
- Movement Type: Heuer 02 (Ref. TH20-00)
- Power Reserve: 80 hours
- Material: Fine brushed polished steel
- Water resistance: 100 metres
- Price: AUD$9,650
Last year may well have been the year of the Carrera, but TAG Heuer kicked off 2024 with a Chornograph-bang. The silver-dial Carrera Chronograph, released in April, represented the pinnacle of uncomplicated, albeit highly sophisticated, design.
According to the brand, it took inspiration from one of Jack Heuer’s very own designs: the 7753 SN. That original timepiece’s influence on the contemporary release was immediately apparent thanks to its silvered dial with black subdials—the world-famous bi-compax panda—and its corresponding nomenclature, ‘SN’ meaning ‘silver’ and ‘noir’. As journalist Rob Edwards explained upon the release, the watch’s black azuré subdials, positioned at 3 and 9 o’clock, provided the perfect contrast to the silver sunray-brushed dial that envelopes them.
“The inclusion of eye-catching red-lacquered hands on each sub-dial, along with red echoes on the tip of the rhodium-plated central hand and at each five-second interval, give the watch a contemporary edge that simultaneously amplifies contrast and legibility,” he said.
From there, Chronograph’s 39mm case was perfectly proportioned in the hand and on the wrist, while the sapphire crystal acted as a seamless continuation of the case’s shape. The curved flange, with its contrasting black and curved rhodium-plated indexes, helped to further accentuate the sense that the case and crystal were, in fact, one. Of course, the addition of the Heuer 02 movement, TAG Heuer’s premiere racing calibre, didn’t go astray, either.
TAG Heuer Formula 1 x Kith
- Brand: TAG Heuer
- Model: Formula 1 x Kith
- Diameter: 35mm
- Thickness: 9.45mm
- Movement: Quartz
- Water Resistance: 200m
- Price: AUD$2,200 (£1,350/$1,550)
- Availability: Pieces are limited in batches of 250-1350 pieces depending on reference
Collaboration king Kith shocked the world earlier this year when it teamed up with iconic watchmaker TAG Heuer for a retro-inspired reimagining of the classic Formula 1 collection. Similar to the much-loved OMEGA x Swatch MoonSwatch joint venture, this release gave fans a new entry point to experience the brand, and what’s more, it leveraged the burgeoning success of motorsport’s most important category.
Reviving the original TAG Heuer Formula 1 collection from 1986, the TAG Heuer Formula 1 x Kith range introduced 10 new timepieces in varying colours and availability. Somewhat remarkably, TAG Heuer and Kith tracked down the original supplier of the case and the exact mould that was used for the first pieces, ensuring that this collection was as authentic as possible.
All 10 releases measured 35mm in diameter and boasted the original forms for the hour hand: a triangle with a dot inside at 12 o’clock, indices that alternate every quarter between shields and dots, and a contrasting minute. Meanwhile, the unidirectional turning bezel was finished in Arnite (plastic), and the watch was powered by a quartz movement with functions of hours, minutes, and seconds.
According to Kith founder Ronnie Fieg, it was a red and black TAG Heuer Formula 1 that ignited his passion for watches, so keeping to the original design was an important factor when considering this new partnership. “The TAG Heuer Formula 1 Series 1 in red and black was my very first watch, the timepiece that helped me express the unique style that’s now manifested itself in Kith,” he said in a statement.
As far as collaborations go, Kith hit the nail on the head with this one. TAG Heuer’s connection to Formula 1 is unrivalled, and pulling an iconic, discontinued piece from the archives makes for a compelling story of exclusivity and intrigue. The watches themselves have this delightfully nostalgic charm that you just don’t see anymore. Love to see it.
Cartier Santos de Cartier
- Brand: Cartier
- Model: Santos de Cartier
- Reference: Ref. WSSA0064
- Diameter: 39.8mm
- Movement: Manufacture calibre 1847 automatic winding
- Water-Resistance: 100m
- Price: AUD$12,600
In recent years, Cartier has really stepped up its game, and the Santos de Cartier is perhaps its most important model. As journalist Ben McKimm explained when he got his hands on one earlier this year, the Santos de Cartier is to the watch industry what the Porsche 911 is to cars; timeless. Few watches can balance utilitarian design language and heritage in the same way as Cartier has done here.
The satin-finish brown sunray dial changes in the light, and while the steel case on the Santos de Cartier is wider than the true-to-the-original Santos-Dumont, it’s arguably more comfortable. Seeing this watch in person does give you a new perspective and it’s easy to see why it has become such a status symbol for style gurus and celebrities. The square case shape is instantly recognisable and Cartier managed to marry its unique design language with a new aesthetic seamlessly. At no point do you feel like the brand has simply rinsed and repeated its past successes, the Santos de Cartier feels entirely new.
The major knock on these watches has always been the movements, but the tide is turning here. After being updated in 2018 with the in-house calibre 1847 MC, the line-up has continually gathered steam amongst watch collectors, and now, it’s inviting more people into the conversation with growing popularity.
OMEGA Speedmaster Chronoscope Paris 2024 Moonshine Gold
- Brand: OMEGA
- Model: Speedmaster Chronoscope Paris 2024
- Reference: Ref. 522.32.43.51.02.001 (stainless steel on strap), Ref. 22.30.43.51.02.001 (stainless steel on bracelet), Ref. 522.62.43.51.02.001 (Moonshine Gold on strap), Ref. 522.60.43.51.02.001 (Moonshine Gold on bracelet)
- Diameter: 43mm
- Movement: Co-Axial Master Chronometer Calibre 9908 / 9909
- Water-Resistance: 50m
- Power Reserve: 60 hours
- Price: AUD$15,725 (Ref. 522.32.43.51.02.001), AUD$16,275 (Ref. 22.30.43.51.02.001), AUD$85,350 (Ref. 522.62.43.51.02.001), AUD$54,325 (Ref. 522.60.43.51.02.001)
With OMEGA serving as the official timekeeper of the 2024 Paris Olympics, gold was always on the watchmaker’s mind. This year, the iconic Swiss brand debuted one of its most dazzling pieces: the OMEGA Speedmaster Chronoscope Paris 2024 in full Moonshine Gold.
Arriving in April, just weeks before the games, four new 43mm Speedmaster models honoured the watch brand’s trademark approach to timekeeping accuracy. The first was a ceramic bezel full-Moonshine gold reference adorned with the brand’s proprietary yellow gold material that looked every bit a podium-topping number. What really stood out, however, wasn’t the glamorous finish that adorned the case, but rather the stunning dial.
A callback to the original ‘snail’ designs of the 1940s that featured multiple, overlapping scales, the silvery white opaline dial introduced three dark grey timing scales onto the watch face. A tachymeter scale (for measuring speed based on distance), pulsometer scale (for measuring a human’s heartbeat) and telemeter scale (for measuring distance based on the speed of sound) featured prominently, again referencing the timekeeping prowess for which the brand staked its Olympic claim.
As a big fan of gold watches, this one immediately caught my eye, however, the integration of the precious metal across the case and bracelet gave this Chronoscope a slightly wider appeal. Despite its glitzy and glamourous case material, the Moonshine Gold Chronoscope didn’t feel over-the-top or elitist but rather a fitting nod to the pursuit of excellence. That being said, OMEGA did drop a full stainless steel model that arrives with an anodized aluminium bezel as well.
Glashütte Original Seventies Chronograph Panorama Date
- Brand: Glashütte Original
- Model: Seventies Chronograph Panorama Date
- Reference: 1-37-02-17-02xx
- Diameter: 40mm
- Movement: Calibre 37-02
- Water-Resistance: 100m
- Power Reserve: 70 hours
- Price: From AUD$23,350 (Limited to 100 pieces each)
I’ve been a huge fan of the Glashütte Original Seventies collection for a few years now and this year’s models didn’t disappoint. Taking a more vibrant approach, the German watchmaker introduced two new Chronograph Panorama Date releases in August, one in “Swimming Pool” turquoise and the other in “Watermelon” coral red.
Both editions featured a 40mm cushion-shaped stainless steel case inspired by 1970s designs and were powered by the in-house cal. 37-02. The movement includes a flyback chronograph, a Panorama Date, and a 70-hour power reserve, all presented with meticulous German-style finishing. Admittedly, the bold colour palette, combined with the retro styling and relatively thick proportions, won’t be for everyone, but I have a soft spot for this chunky German release.
Mido Ocean Star Decompression Timer 1961
- Brand: Mido
- Model: Ocean Star Decompression Timer 1961
- Reference: M026.807.33.051.00
- Diameter: 40.50mm
- Movement: Calibre 80
- Water-Resistance: 200m
- Power Reserve: 80 hours
- Price: AUD$2,225 (Limited to 1,961 pieces)
After stunning us with a few solid dive watches last year, Mido backed it up in 2024. The Swatch Group-owned maison unveiled a suite of TV dial models and classic dive watches that are among the best value on the market, however, my top pick has to be the Ocean Star Decompression Timer 1961. A tribute to an eponymous release from 1961, this release perfectly walked the line between recreation and reference, introducing a few contemporary components to the fold.
This modern iteration updated the classic design with a sleek black PVD coating while preserving the original’s functionality and aesthetic. Limited to just 1,961 pieces, the watch boasted a robust stainless steel case, a unidirectional bezel with a decompression scale, and a clear, legible dial designed for ease of use underwater.
As watch writer Dimitri Tsilioris noted upon the release, the special edition watch reflected Mido’s commitment to both historical reverence and modern innovation. It offered a sophisticated, yet practical tool for divers, with its black PVD finish giving it a contemporary edge. The decompression timer remains a key feature, echoing the original 1961 model’s functionality.
TAG Heuer Monaco Chronograph Racing Green
- Brand: TAG Heuer
- Model: Monaco Chronograph Racing Green
- Reference: Ref. CAW218E.FC6565
- Diameter: 39mm
- Thickness: 14.35mm
- Movement: Calibre 11
- Power Reserve: 40 hours
- Water-Resistance: 100 metres
- Price: AUD$13,500
The Monaco needs no introduction. TAG Heuer’s square-shaped favourite has become a collector’s dream and an important milestone in the brand’ indelible legacy, with 2024 seeing the arrival of a suite of new editions. While there were many to choose from (I’m quite partial to the recent Las Vegas Grand Prix model), the star of the show was undoubtedly the Monaco Chronograph Racing Green, released in September.
Paying homage to Selwyn Edge’s famous victory at the 1902 Gordon Bennett Cup, this iteration of classic Monaco added a touch of British aristocracy to the iconic square-shaped watch, echoing the classic green aesthetic favourited by drivers from Great Britain. From the subdials to the 12 light green Super-LumiNova dot markers on the dial, TAG Heuer seamlessly incorporated the traditional racing green into the design, with a few interesting nods to ’20s and ’30s design.
The silver sunray-brushed dial, which we first saw on the 2023 Racing Blue model, was again a standout addition. The rich interplay of light and shade that comes with the silver dial elevates this Monaco from another limited edition to a serious collector’s piece.
Longines Spirit Zulu Time Titanium
- Brand: Longines
- Model: Spirit Zulu Time Titanium
- Reference: Ref. l38021536
- Diameter: 39mm
- Thickness: 13.50 mm
- Movement: Calibre L844.4 automatic
- Water-Resistance: 100m
- Power Reserve: 72 hours
- Price: AUD$6,650
Longines’ insane run over the past few years should be studied. No other watch brand has been able to pull from the archives with quite the same level of expertise and efficacy, with the St Imier icon dishing up collection after collection of stunning timepieces. In August, the brand updated arguably its most important aviation piece, adorning the Spirit Zulu Time with an all-new titanium case material, a first for the collection. It was, to put it lightly, an absolute show-stopper.
At 39mm, the Longines Spirit Zulu Time Titanium was the ultimate daily driver, offering a sleek and refined profile complete with a renewed level of durability. Crafted from Grade 5 titanium—an alloy as robust as it is lightweight—the timepiece was powered by an exclusive Longines GMT calibre L844.4, which offered cutting-edge precision and was certified by the COSC (Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres).
The movement was equipped with a silicon balance spring and components that enabled it to offer a resistance to magnetic fields that’s 10 times greater than the ISO 764 reference standard. Plus, it offered a reassuring power reserve of up to 72 hours, a pretty solid effort for any timepiece on the market.
As a brand, Longines has knocked it out of the park this year, and pieces like the Spirit Zulu Time Titanium only add to my anticipation for the future. The watchmaker is absolutely nailing heritage-inspired releases, and with a few anniversaries on the horizon, I’m expecting big things in 2025.
Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Self-Winding Ora ïto
- Brand: Vacheron Constantin
- Model: Patrimony Self-Winding Ora ïto
- Reference: 85180/000J-H069
- Diameter: 40mm x 8.55mm
- Movement: Calibre 2450 Q6/3
- Water-Resistance: 30m
- Power Reserve: 40 hours
- Price: AUD$59,000 (Limited to 100 pieces)
When Vacheron Constantin makes a statement, it goes loud. Released in October, the Patrimony Self-Winding Ora ït was a shining (quite literally) example of the watchmaker’s commitment to art and texture. Crafted to commemorate the 20th anniversary of the esteemed line of classical dress watches, this release came directly from the mind of French designer Ora Ito.
The artist, who previously collaborated with Swatch, appliance manufacturer Gorenje, Heineken and fragrance brand Davidoff, fused his ethos of ‘Simplexity’ with Vacheron Constantin’s traditional approach. The result was nothing short of amazing, with the intricate dial boasting a gilded brass construction and stamped with concentric patterns, much like the ripple effect on the water’s surface. The addition of the date window at 6 o’clock, with the numeral in red, added a lovely bit of contrast to the mass of yellow that sits around it.
As a long-time fan of the somewhat understated Patrimony Collection, the Self-Winding Ora ïto does feel a little out of left field, but somehow, it works. Vacheron Constantin managed to incorporate precious metal and more opulent high-end finishes without losing the classic, refined luxury that the line is best-known for. It’s an absolute masterpiece of watch design, and I’m entirely unsurprised that it comes from VC.
Patek Philippe Cubitus
- Brand: Patek Philippe
- Model: Cubitus Instantaneous Grand Date, Day and Moon Phases
- Reference: Ref. 5822P-001
- Diameter: 45mm
- Thickness: 9.6mm
- Movement: Calibre 240 PS CI J LU self-winding movement
- Power Reserve: 48 hours
- Water-Resistance: 30 metres
- Price: USD$88,378 (AUD$132,000)
When Patek Philippe released images of the Cubitus, its first new collection in over 25 years, the internet did not hold back. Watch forums and communities were quick to criticise the clunky square case design, giant diameter and seemingly uninspired design language, but as the initial conjecture settled, interest began to rise. For me, the Cubitus wasn’t an immediate hit, but after seeing the watch in person and trying it on, I can certainly see where Patek Philippe boss Thierry Stern is coming from.
Comprising three models, each featuring a new square-shaped case with rounded corners and a dial adorned with horizontal relief embossing, the Cubitus collection feels oddly familiar. There are nods to classic lines such as the Nautilus and Aquanaut but with a refreshed and sporty feel thrown in for good measure. Importantly, Patek Philippe didn’t just throw the old mechanics in a new case.
The technical model, Cubitus Instantaneous Grand Date, Day and Moon Phases, Ref. 5822P-001 featured an all-new movement with instantaneous displays and was presented in a platinum case. The two remaining models feature case materials in two-tone steel and rose gold with a blue sunburst dial and steel with an olive-green sunburst dial, respectively.
Admittedly, square watches aren’t for everyone, and at a whopping 45mm in diameter, this piece isn’t likely to satisfy the masses, but that’s not what Patek Philippe is known for. Big, bold, and almost impossible to get your hands on, the Cubitus has slowly garnered the acclaim Thierry Stern initially envisioned. Expect to see more exciting developments on this one.
Swatch x OMEGA MoonSwatch Mission to Earthphase
- Brand: Swatch x OMEGA
- Model: MoonSwatch Mission to Earthphase
- Diameter: 42mm
- Thickness: 13.75mm
- Movement: Quartz Chronograph
- Water-Resistance: 30m
- Price: AUD$525 (USD$325)
It’s been a few years since the MoonSwatch craze kicked off, and while interest may have died down slightly, the collaboration is bearing sweet fruit. In November, the two industry giants unveiled the MoonSwatch Mission to Earthphase, a limited model that introduced a brand-new quartz complication and earth phase indicator.
As Ben McKimm explained at the time, the function essentially operates in a similar way to a retrograde function in a high-end watch, representing a sort-of inverse ‘Moon phase’ function. It uses the same 29.5-day cycle but in reverse. So, when there’s a Full Moon, we have a New Earth, and when there’s a New Moon, we have a Full Earth. It’s not a particularly complex function, and the Earth phase turns counterclockwise, in the opposite direction to the Moon. Simple? Maybe, but it certainly got us talking.
Outside of that, this latest MoonSwatch did have a few subtle highlights that are worth noting. I’m a sucker for a good story, and the integration of the grain texture on the dial piqued my interest. According to Swatch, this finish was designed to represent lunar dust, while the craters of the moon have been created using digital printing. Better still, you can spot Neil Armstong’s footprint on the Moon on the case back, and the oceans are coated with UV ink (blue emission) visible only in UV light. I do wish the Bioceramic material was a little less plastic-like, but you can’t deny this MoonSwatch is one of the best so far.
Seiko Prospex Alpinist Australasian Limited Edition
- Brand: Seiko
- Model: Prospex Alpinist Australasian Limited Edition
- Reference: Ref. SPB489J
- Diameter: 39.5mm
- Thickness: 13.2mm
- Movement: Calibre 6R35 automatic
- Water-Resistance: 200m
- Price: AUD$1,200
When it comes to value-for-money timepieces, there is no greater proponent than Seiko. The iconic Japanese watchmaker has spent decades crafting incredibly accurate, reliable and affordable watches that stand the test of time. In 2024, the brand stepped things up once more, unveiling a Prospex Alpinist Australasian Limited Edition that served as the ultimate homage to our nation’s Red Centre.
Limited to 1,000 pieces and exclusive to Australia, this Alpinist was difficult to find, but it certainly wasn’t hard to spot. Characterised by its eye-catching red dial, which immediately recalled the tones of the Australian desert at sunrise and sunset, the Prospex was a serious head-turner. As journalist Rob Edwards explained in his review, the 39.5 mm stainless steel watch is an undeniable piece of work.
“By reflecting a landscape with an entirely singular colour palette, Seiko has crafted a similarly unique timepiece, which is only further enhanced by the inclusion of a high-quality brown leather strap, speaking to the rugged sophistication that has always been a key part of Alpinist DNA,” he wrote.
Inside, the Seiko Prospex Alpinist Australasian Limited Edition boasts an Automatic Calibre 6R35, delivering an impressive 70-hour power reserve that provides invaluable peace of mind during prolonged outdoor adventures. Best of all, at only AUD$1,200, it was an absolute steal.
Tudor Pelagos FXD GMT ‘Zulu Time’
- Brand: Tudor
- Model: Pelagos FXD GMT ‘Zulu Time’
- Reference: Ref. m2542g247nu-0002
- Diameter: 42mm
- Thickness: 12.7mm
- Movement: Calibre MT5652-U (COSC and METAS certified)
- Power Reserve: 65 hours
- Water-Resistance: 200 metres
- Price: $6,890
Tudor’s evolution over the past decade has been fascinating to watch. In the past, you couldn’t talk about the brand without someone invariably bringing up Rolex, but the tide is turning, and I would argue Tudor has had a stronger 2024 than its famous stablemate. The Pelagos FXD GMT ‘Zulu Time’, a marine-focused version of the maison’s much-loved dive watch collection, is a huge reason why.
Measuring 42mm in diameter, the naval timepiece combined robust features with clever details to retain a beautifully basic layout. Thanks to a GMT function, the watch can simultaneously keep time in up to three time zones, including the aforementioned “Zulu time,” i.e. the military name for Universal Time Coordinated (UTC) and a baseline reference for all aviators.
Beneath the black matt dial was the Manufacture Calibre MT5652-U, Tudor’s in-house automatic movement with a power reserve of up to 70 hours. A bidirectional rotatable bezel and master chronometer certification make the piece a master of sea and sky alike, while its Rolex-adjacent design language cultivates an unbeatable aesthetic. Add the GMT function and date complication, and you get a spectacular meeting ground between performance and style.
More Man of Many 100 Stories
Want to know what else made the Man of Many 100 list? Check out all of our coverage for this year, including developments in cars, fashion, tech, and alcohol.
- Man of Many 100 List
- Best Tech Releases of 2024
- Best Auto Releases of 2024
- Best Drinks Releases of 2024
- Best Fashion Releases of 2024
- Best Outdoor Releases of 2024
- Best Home & Living Releases of 2024
How Man of Many Chose The Best Watch Releases of 2024
To arrive at this list of products, the Man of Many team went through hours and rigorous testing, implementation and analysis before culling it down to the very best. Over the last 12 months, we’ve worked on curated products that push boundaries and pioneer new fronts, across the automotive, fashion, lifestyle and technology verticals. Sure, we love getting the latest piece of kit in our hands but being able to objectively point out the benefits and shortfalls is at the heart of what we do.
As a result, this list is primarily comprised of products that we tested in-house and use extensively first-hand. While there are a few exceptions to the rule, generally due to scarcity and availability, we made note of the cultural significance surrounding each product should we not have been able to review it personally.