The Wind Up – Watch News #318

You would be forgiven for thinking that in the weeks leading up to Watches & Wonders, the world of watches would be rather bland and stale. Think again. In this week’s Wind Up round up, we’ve got a range of new watches that couldn’t wait for the horological show of shows to come around. We’ve got new drops from the likes of Ressence, Seiko and Urwerk, along with an incredible collaborative effort between Kari Voutilainen and Louis Vuitton. Enjoy the read and have a great week ahead.

Seiko Astron GPS Solar Dual-Time Chronograph

• Brand: Seiko 
• Model: Astron GPS Solar Dual-Time Chronograph
• Reference: Ref. SSH1xx
• Diameter: 44.10mm
• Thickness: 14.40mm
• Movement: Calibre 5X83
• Power Reserve: 6 months
• Water Resistance: 100 metres
• Price: From USD$3,100

Seiko went to town with its Astron GPS Solar Dual-Time Chronograph in several new references. What can be called a more visually striking package, these new references boast a range of aesthetic improvements including a sapphire-covered bezel, diamond-milled chapter rings and faceted details on the case.

The Astron GPS Solar Dual-Time Chronograph continues to be one of the brand’s most practical watches, and with functions like GPS time and time zone setting, a perpetual calendar and a 6-month power reserve, you would be hard pressed to find a like-for-like watch that offers any sort of comparative competitiveness.

Louis Vuitton x Voutilainen LVKV-02 GMR 6

• Brand: Louis Vuitton x Voutilainen 
• Model: LVKV-02 GMR 6
• Reference: Ref. LVKV-02 GMR 6
• Diameter: 40.50mm
• Thickness: 12.54mm
• Movement: Voutilainen GMR 6
• Power Reserve: 65 hours
• Water Resistance: 30 metres
• Price: €458,000 (Limited to 5 pieces)

Louis Vuitton has continued its rather aggressive expansion into the upper echelons of watchmaking by working with none other than industry legend Kari Voutilainen. This collaborative effort marries the two respective brands’ most iconic designs into one very interesting and very out-there timepiece.

The project ensues with a case inspired by Louis Vuitton’s distinct trunks, along with a hand-painted guilloche dial reminiscent of Voutilainen’s artistic flair that pays tribute to LV’s super iconic “Damier” stylised pattern. There are a lot of touches — easter eggs — found through the Louis Vuitton x Voutilainen LVKV-02 GMR 6. One of my favourites is the “LVOUTILAINEN“ plate at the top of the dial. The magic more than continues on the caseback — this is a Kari Voutilainen movement, of course.

Ressence Type 7 GMT

• Brand: Ressence
• Model: Type 7 GMT
• Reference Number: Type 7 
• Diameter: 41mm
• Thickness: 14mm
• Movement: Calibre ETA 2824-2 (With display module)
• Power Reserve: 36 hours
• Water Resistance: 50 metres
• Price: CHF36,000

Ressence jumps on the integrated-bracelet bandwagon with the new Type 7 GMT. Available in Night Blue or Aquamarine, the Type 7 GMT is everything you know and love about Ressence, but now on something a touch sturdier (and with the times). The Type 7 GMT is also the brand’s first complicated watch, a feat that deserving of a round of applause.

It’s an odd look, seeing any Ressence piece on a steel bracelet, but there is a significant amount of thought and genuine engineering awesomeness with the way that the bracelet sits between the lugs, and how the lugs have been designed to sort of wrap around the wrist. This was done to equalise the domed design of the dial and caseback, and just by going off pictures, it looks like Ressence has done a really good job with it.

Urwerk UR-101 T-Rex

• Brand: Urwerk
• Model: UR-101 T-Rex
• Diameter: 41mm
• Thickness: 11.86mm
• Movement: Calibre UR-1.01V
• Power Reserve: 48 hours
• Water Resistance: 30m
• Price: CHF38,000 (Limited to 100 pieces)

Last but certainly not least, we have the UR-101 T-Rex. The UR-101 is Urwerk’s answer to the entry-level watch, albeit with what the maison affectionately calls its T-Rex treatment. Looking at the case, you can easily see why. The bronze case is finished with a scale-like guilloche, a very cool and very polarising look.

The UR-101 T-Rex is the kind of watch you want to look at more, or it’s one that you can only really take in once. It’s an odd look on an even odder watch, and this onslaught of oddity is perhaps just a bit too much. As much as the UR-101 is a cool piece, the addition of the T-Rex finish doesn’t sit well with me. Regardless, the UR-101 T-Rex will sell through its 100 allocations quickly — of that I have absolutely no doubt.