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Rolex oyster perpetual celebration

Best Watch Releases of Watches & Wonders 2023

Set in Geneva, Watches & Wonders 2023 was held from the 27th of March to the 2nd of April 2023. Over the course of the week, some of the world’s most well-known watchmakers featured novelties with stunning pieces unveiled by the likes of Rolex, Patek Philippe, A. Lange & Söhne, Cartier, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Panerai, Tudor and Vacheron Constantin. Here, we’ve unpacked all the best watches from the event, highlighting some of the most interesting, notable and impressive pieces.

Chopard alpine eagle 41 xps
Image: Chopard

Chopard Alpine Eagle 41 XPS

  • Brand: Chopard
  • Model: Alpine Eagle 41 XPS
  • Reference Number: 298623-3001
  • Diameter: 41mm
  • Water Resistance: 100m
  • Calibre: L.U.C 96.40-L
  • Power Reserve: 65 hours
  • Price: €24,400

Chopard opened the show with one of the coolest pieces by far, the Alpine Eagle 41 XPS. This particular model features a stunning “Monte Rosa Pink” dial encased in the very recognisable Alpine Eagle case construct. The pop of the dial is really complemented by the cool look of the stainless steel case and bracelet.

It’s an ultra-thin affair, with the Chopard Alpine Eagle 41 XPS’ dimensions really deserving a second look. Its movement, the supremely practical calibre L.U.C 96.40-L measures a paper-thin 3.3mm in thickness, a testament to Chopard’s watchmaking prowess. The entire package measures only 8mm in thickness — outstanding. Side note: this is only the second Chopard-manufactured movement to be granted a Geneva Seal.

Bell ross br x5 carbon orange
Image: Bell & Ross

Bell & Ross BR-X5 Carbon Orange

  • Brand: Bell & Ross
  • Model: BR-X5 Carbon Orange
  • Reference Number: BRX5R-BO-TC/SRB
  • Diameter: 41mm
  • Water Resistance: 100m
  • Calibre: BR-CAL.323.
  • Power Reserve: 70 hours
  • Price: $17,00

Bell & Ross has ushered a new generation of the BR 05 with the BR-X5 Carbon Orange. A bold, masculine and completely endearing design resolutely places the BR-X5 Carbon Orange in the realm of iconicity for the brand. The blend of modern materials and avant-garde design makes for a scintillating and thoroughly intriguing package.

The distinct combination of orange against the carbon and titanium case gives the wearer heightened levels of lightness and robustness, all the while retaining Bell & Ross’ unique approach to its case architecture. The Bell & Ross BR-X5 Carbon Orange is a modern piece that pays tribute to the brand’s ability to recreate and reinvent itself.

Patek philippe 6007g calatravas 1200x900 1
Image: Patek Philippe

Patek Philippe 6007G Calatravas

  • Brand: Patek Philippe
  • Model: 6007G Calatrava
  • Reference Number: 6007G-0x
  • Diameter: 40mm
  • Water Resistance: 30m
  • Calibre: 26-330 S C
  • Power Reserve: 35 hours
  • Price: Price on request

Patek Philippe has unveiled a trio of funky and sporty-looking Calatravas. These new references are as dynamic as they are cool and come in three unique colourways. There is a blue, a red and a yellow model, with each reference holding its own as a distinctly different yet very similar timepiece.

Each model is encased in white gold, with each piece being powered by the automatic calibre 26-330 S C. The centre feature on each piece is that “carbon” embossed pattern in the middle of the dial, which is accentuated by the similarly stylised strap. These are some very contemporary and very un-Patek Pateks. So cool!

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U boat capsoil doppiotempo
Image: U-BOAT

U-BOAT Capsoil Doppiotempo

  • Brand: U-BOAT
  • Model: Capsoil Doppiotempo
  • Reference Number: 9673
  • Diameter: 55mm
  • Water Resistance: 100m

Next up is the ultra-cool U-BOAT Capsoil Doppiotempo. Measuring in at 55mm, the U-BOAT Capsoil Doppiotempo is going to be one of the biggest watches of Watches & Wonders 2023, but with its distinct design cues it’s also going to be one of the most involving. It features a dual-time function thanks to the internal rotating bezel with an “Oil Immersion” Concept, along with a case filled with an oil bath.

The case is covered in black DLC, with this black theme extending to the dial which is offset by beige-coloured indexes and numbers. The ones placed in red lie in the internal black bezel and are used for the dual-time function of the U-BOAT Capsoil Doppiotempo. Very cool stuff from U-BOAT.

Cartier prive tank normale
Image: Cartier

Cartier Privé Tank Normale

artier is on a serious roll, with the new Privé Tank Normale collection entering the foray at Watches & Wonders 2023. Based on the 1917 original, the Privé Tank Normale collection features four new models, two yellow gold models (one on a brown leather strap, one on a matching bracelet), and two platinum models (one on a black leather strap, one on a matching bracelet). There are also openworked models, all of which are absolutely outstanding.

What Cartier presented at Watches & Wonders 2023 are timepieces that exemplify that the maison represents in modern watchmaking. The new models all carry with them the quintessential qualities that make a Cartier well, a Cartier. Beautiful lines, understated yet bold architecture and design virtues that make it as relevant now as it was in 1917. Supreme watchmaking.

Iwcs new ingenieur models
Image: IWC

IWC’s New Ingenieur Models

  • Brand: IWC
  • Model: Ingenieur Automatic 40
  • Reference Number: IW32890x
  • Diameter: 40mm
  • Water Resistance: 100m
  • Calibre: 32111
  • Power Reserve: 120 hours
  • Price: AUD$17,300 (stainless steel); AUD$21,700 (titanium)

IWC has refreshed its most wearable line with four new models. The Ingeniuer collection was introduced in 1955, and now in its latest references we have some incredible new models with some new colour ways. Three new steel models were introduced, along with a titanium model. Each model has a distinct “grid” pattern that helps make the most of the four different-coloured dials. From a stunning aqua to the standard black and white, as well as a grey dial colour for the titanium timepiece, there is definitely something for everyone.

These new Ingenieur models are all more than capable of standing with the best of them. This is perhaps best represented with the integration of IWC’s in-house 32111 calibre. We’re going to go out on a limb here and say that these new Ingenieur models will reign supreme as some of IWC’s most popular models this year.

Rolex does what rolex does best
Image: Rolex

Rolex Does What Rolex Does Best

Rolex absolutely went all out for Watches & Wonders 2023. We have some brand new Daytona models, along with an epic platinum Daytona with an open sapphire caseback, new diamond Day-Dates, a new Explorer in 40mm, some new GMT-Master II models, a new Yacht-Master 42 and a new Sky-Dweller.

But perhaps the most surprising is the new Oyster Perpetual. Rolex opted to use a new dial decoration aptly named “Celebration”, with the new motif available in all new Oyster Perpetual 31, Oyster Perpetual 36 and Oyster Perpetual 41 models. As polarising as it is, this new colourful dial pattern is as cool as it is unexpected.

Piaget polo perpetual calendar ultra thin
Piaget Polo Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin | Image: Piaget

Piaget Polo Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin

  • Brand: Piaget
  • Model: Polo Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin
  • Reference Number: G0A48005
  • Diameter: 42mm
  • Water Resistance: 30m
  • Calibre: 1255P
  • Power Reserve: 42 hours
  • Price: €60,500

Piaget’s Polo has finally entered the world of practical complications. Introducing the Piaget Polo Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin, this marks perhaps a new direction for the Polo, a watch that packs some serious punch. What we have within its 8.65mm thick case is a new manufacture perpetual calendar movement that measures a paper-thin 4 mm.

Aside from the overall thinness of the Piaget Polo Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin, there is plenty else to admire. From the green dial to the cushion-shaped case and the open sapphire caseback, the Piaget Polo Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin delivers on multiple fronts and heralds in a new era for the maison’s most wearable timepiece.

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Angelus chronodate titanium
Angelus Chronodate Titanium | Image: Angelus

Angelus Chronodate Titanium

  • Brand: Angelus
  • Model: Chronodate Titanium
  • Reference Number: 0CDZF.B02A.K009B
  • Diameter: 42.5mm
  • Water Resistance: 30m
  • Calibre: A-500
  • Power Reserve: 60 hours
  • Price: CHF22,900

Next up is the Angelus Chronodate Titanium. Boasting a neo-spirit of the quintessential classic chronograph, the Angelus Chronodate Titanium is an enigmatic timepiece that fits the bill of a contemporary chronograph.

Clad in a titanium case construct whose architecture is absolutely phenomenal and features different finishings and levels, the Angelus Chronodate Titanium is a brilliant little bit of kit that is perhaps one of those watches that deserve a second or even third look to fully appreciate.

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Hublot classic fusion chronograph orlinski
Hublot Classic Fusion Chronograph Orlinski | Image: Hublot

Hublot Classic Fusion Chronograph Orlinski

  • Brand: Hublot
  • Model: Classic Fusion Chronograph Orlinski
  • Reference Number: 549.NI.1270.NI.ORL23
  • Diameter: 41mm
  • Water Resistance: 50m
  • Calibre: HUB1153
  • Power Reserve: 42 hours
  • Price: AUD$24,400

Are we seeing the rise of the renaissance Hublot? With the new Hublot Classic Fusion Chronograph Orlinski perhaps so. Encased in titanium and paired with a gloss black dial, the new Hublot Classic Fusion Chronograph Orlinski features Richard Orlinski’s polygonal style throughout the case construct, adding some dramatic effect to an otherwise very restrained affair.

We particularly like the balance of some very “out-there” styling with regards to the case design, where the almost suave look of the gloss back dial pulls the Hublot Classic Fusion Chronograph Orlinski back from being overly audacious. It’s an interesting piece that delivers on multiple fronts.

Zenith defy skyline skeleton
Zenith DEFY Skyline Skeleton | Image: Zenith

Zenith DEFY Skyline Skeleton

  • Brand: Zenith
  • Model: DEFY Skyline Skeleton
  • Reference Number: 49.9300.3620/78.I001
  • Diameter: 41mm
  • Water Resistance: 100m
  • Calibre: El Primero 3620
  • Power Reserve: 60 hours
  • Price: CHF16,900

The Zenith DEFY Skyline Skeleton builds on what is already a super successful collection, taking things in a bold new direction. As we all know, the Skyline collection of watches laid the groundwork for this ceramic-encased openworked wonder to come along. And it did not disappoint.

From the openworked dial to the ceramic case and bracelet, the DEFY Skyline Skeleton delivers on all the elements of Zenith that we’ve come to know and love. Modern, clean, detailed and finished well, the Zenith DEFY Skyline Skeleton is undoubtedly one of Watches & Wonder 2023’s best releases.

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Ulysse nardin freak one
Ulysse Nardin Freak ONE | Image: Ulysse Nardin

Ulysse Nardin Freak ONE

  • Brand: Ulysse Nardin
  • Model: Freak ONE
  • Reference Number: 2405-500-2A/3D
  • Diameter: 44mm
  • Water Resistance: 30m
  • Calibre: UN-240
  • Power Reserve: 72 hours
  • Price: USD$68,600

Ulysse Nardin has unveiled its latest expression of the Freak in the Freak ONE. Combining the original Freak’s iconic aesthetic with contemporary materials, finishings and technologies, the new Freak ONE is a definitive feat of haute horlogerie.

What we have is a DLC-coated titanium and gold crown-less case that surrounds the highly unique and super complicated time display that the Freak has become synonymous with. The Freak ONE is undeniably modern in its execution, however it stays true to its roots and continues to be a marvel of contemporary watchmaking.

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Vacheron constantin les cabinotiers dual moon grand complication
Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Dual Moon Grand Complication | Image: Vacheron Constantin

Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Dual Moon Grand Complication

  • Brand: Vacheron Constantin
  • Model: Les Cabinotiers Dual Moon Grand Complication
  • Calibre: 2755 TMRCCQP
  • Price: Piece Unique

Featuring a new manufacture movement with 11 complications and a sum of 774 components, Vacheron Constantin’s Les Cabinotiers Dual Moon Grand Complication is one of Watches & Wonder 2023’s most complicated timepieces.

This white gold single-piece work of art features a striking double precision moon phase, a perpetual calendar and a minute repeater, complete with an awe-inspiring sky chart and a beautiful, skeletonised tourbillon in the back. Safe to say Vacheron Constantin definitely did not disappoint.

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Rolex day date emoji
Rolex Day-Date Emoji | Image: Rolex

Rolex Day-Date Emoji

  • Brand: Rolex
  • Model: Day-Date Emoji
  • Reference Number: 128238/128239/128235
  • Diameter: 36mm
  • Water Resistance: 100m
  • Calibre: 3255
  • Power Reserve: 70 hours
  • Price: Price on request

Rolex, the maison whose deep history includes creating some of the world’s best tool watches, has stepped into the realm of modernity. Here is perhaps Watches & Wonder’s most surprising watch, the Rolex Day-Date Emoji. Available in three versions, all of which are 36mm, the new Rolex Day-Date Emoji is every bit wacky as you can imagine.

It features a champlevé enamel dial with multi-coloured jigsaw pieces, has ten baguette sapphires for the hour markers, gets rid of the day and date numerals in the apertures and instead replaces them with emojis and words. The end result is something that is ultimately polarising but does march to the beat of a new kind of drum that horology seems to be adapting.

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Chopard L.U.C 1860
Chopard L.U.C 1860 | Image: Chopard

Chopard L.U.C 1860

  • Brand: Chopard
  • Model:  L.U.C 1860
  • Reference Number: 168860-3003
  • Diameter: 36.5mm
  • Water Resistance: 30m
  • Calibre: L.U.C 96-40-L
  • Power Reserve: 65 hours
  • Price: TBC

Chopard is on a roll. Aside from releasing that awesome salmon dial Alpine Eagle earlier in the week, the maison just dropped arguably the dress-equivalent salmon-coloured dial version in the new L.U.C 1860. Classical in its proportions, the L.U.C 1860’s Lucent Steel case measures 36.5mm by 8.2mm and has a gold salmon-coloured dial with a hand-guilloché medallion in the centre.

Powering this stunning piece is Chopard’s in-house COSC certified Poinçon de Genève calibre L.U.C 96.40-L, visible through the open sapphire caseback. This is a sophisticated and timeless rendition of a modern dress watch and it is absolutely wondrous.

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Roger dubuis monovortex split seconds chronograph
Roger Dubuis Monovortex Split-Seconds Chronograph | Image: Roger Dubuis

Roger Dubuis Monovortex Split-Seconds Chronograph

  • Brand: Roger Dubuis
  • Model: Monovortex Split-Seconds Chronograph
  • Diameter: 47mm
  • Water Resistance: 100m
  • Calibre: RD114
  • Price: Piece Unique

Next up is a piece from Roger Dubuis with the insanely complicated Monovortex Split-Seconds Chronograph. Roger Dubuis really went all out with this new micro-piece of mastery, incorporating some patented technology like a 360-degree tourbillon and oscillating weight in an attempt to use gravitate to work for the watch (as opposed to attempting to dissipate its effects).

Encasing this super contemporary technology is 47mm of MCF Carbon Composite with a very distinct colourway. Roger Dubuis hasn’t rested on its laurels with its drama either, ensuring maximum visibility dial side and caseback side. Not for everyone, but damn this is supreme.

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Montblanc 1858 iced sea automatic date
Montblanc 1858 Iced Sea Automatic Date | Image: Montblanc

Montblanc 1858 Iced Sea Automatic Date

  • Brand: Montblanc
  • Model: 1858 Iced Sea Automatic Date
  • Reference Number: MB130807
  • Diameter: 41mm
  • Water Resistance: 300m
  • Calibre: MB 24.17
  • Power Reserve: 38 hours
  • Price: AUD$4,800

Montblanc has had an excellent showing, too. Among my favourites is the 1858 Iced Sea Automatic Date. It features a grey patterned dial that mimics the texture of a glacier. This was achieved by using an old technique called gratté-boisé.

It comes on a stainless steel bracelet which matches the case, as well as a rubber strap which can be easily swapped out. It’s remarkable how far Montblanc is willing to take its 1858 collection, with this new 1858 Iced Sea Automatic Date model being a really cool example of that.

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Montblanc 1858 the unveiled secret minerva monopusher chronograph
Montblanc 1858 The Unveiled Secret Minerva Monopusher Chronograph | Imah

Montblanc 1858 The Unveiled Secret Minerva Monopusher Chronograph

  • Brand: Montblanc
  • Model: 1858 The Unveiled Secret Minerva Monopusher Chronograph
  • Reference Number: 1296xx
  • Diameter: 43mm
  • Water Resistance: 30m
  • Calibre: MB M16.26
  • Power Reserve: 50 hours
  • Price: USD$48,000 for lime gold / USD$33,500 for steel

If you thought the 1858 Iced Sea Automatic Date was cool, wait until you see this. From Montblanc comes the 1858 The Unveiled Secret Minerva Monopusher Chronograph. Available in either lime gold or steel, the 1858 The Unveiled Secret Minerva Monopusher Chronograph boasts an inverted movement that brings all of the theatrics of horology to the dial.

Inverting a dial basically means bringing most of the movement’s moving bits to the front of the dial, which Montblanc has done in tremendous fashion. It’s been finished really well to Montblanc’s standards, and is an exciting venture from the brand.

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Hublot big bang mp 13 tourbillon bi axis bi retrograde titanium

Hublot Big Bang MP-13 Tourbillon Bi-Axis Bi-Retrograde Titanium | Image: Hublot

Hublot Big Bang MP-13 Tourbillon Bi-Axis Bi-Retrograde Titanium

  • Brand: Hublot
  • Model: Big Bang MP-13 Tourbillon Bi-Axis Bi-Retrograde Titanium
  • Reference Number: 913.NX.1170.RX
  • Diameter: 44mm
  • Water Resistance: 30m
  • Calibre: HUB6200
  • Power Reserve: 96 hours
  • Price: AUD$220,000

From Hublot we have the new Big Bang MP-13 Tourbillon Bi-Axis Bi-Retrograde Titanium. As the name implies, the Big Bang MP-13 Tourbillon Bi-Axis Bi-Retrograde Titanium features a titanium case that contains a double-axis tourbillon and a bi-retrograde display.

This is a very cool, very chic and very avant garde take on some serious watchmaking from Hublot. It’s an epic combination of haute horlogerie with some quirky design cues. I particularly like the different look of the watch, but it’s definitely not going to be for everyone.

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Rolex introduces a new collection
Rolex Perpetual 1908 | Image: Rolex

Rolex Perpetual 1908

  • Brand: Rolex
  • Model: Perpetual 1908
  • Reference Number: 52508
  • Diameter: 39mm
  • Water Resistance: 50m
  • Calibre: 7140
  • Power Reserve: 66 hours
  • Price: AUD$31,100

Rolex went rampant with its Watches & Wonders 2023 drops, but perhaps the best is from the new 1908 collection. The new Perpetual 1908 collection pays homage to the year Hans Wilsdorf devised the name “Rolex” and registered the brand in Switzerland, and features arguably one of the best looking dress watches around.

The Perpetual 1908 is clad in yellow gold, has a partly fluted bezel, a small seconds register and an open sapphire caseback. It’s neither revolutionary nor is it groundbreaking, but damn is it a welcomed sight in and amongst the plethora of all-metal Rolex tool watches. Love it.

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Vacheron constantin patrimony retrograde day date
Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Retrograde Day-Date | Image: Vacheron Constantin

Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Retrograde Day-Date

  • Brand: Vacheron Constantin
  • Model: Patrimony Retrograde Day-Date
  • Reference Number: 4000U/000P-H003
  • Diameter: 42.5mm
  • Water Resistance: 30m
  • Calibre: 2460 R31R7/3
  • Power Reserve: 40 hours
  • Price: TBC

Vacheron Constantin revealed a platinum version of the Patrimony Retrograde Day-Date. It has a really lovely salmon-coloured sunburst finished dial with white gold hour markers and hands, as well as a white gold pearl minute track. The focal point here are those two retrograde displays, one for the date and the other for the day.

The Patrimony Retrograde Day-Date is a very well thought out piece that boasts balance and expertise, with the platinum case being the proverbial cherry on top of what is already a very lovely package. Once again, Vacheron Constantin proves why it’s at the top of the food chain.

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A lange sohne odysseus chronograph
A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus Chronograph Image: A. Lange & Söhne

A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus Chronograph

  • Brand: A. Lange & Söhne
  • Model: Odysseus Chronograph
  • Reference Number: 463.178
  • Diameter: 42.5mm
  • Water Resistance: 120m
  • Calibre: L156.1 Datomatic
  • Power Reserve: 50 hours
  • Price: TBC

The Odysseus was met with both controversy and seemingly endless waitlists. And A. Lange & Söhne being A. Lange & Söhne, the thought for Watches & Wonders 2023 appears to have been how can the Odysseus be made even better? The answer is obvious: complicate things as all Germans like to do. But only in the best of ways.

Here is the exquisite A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus Chronograph. Limited to only 100 units, crafted in stainless steel and boasting a new L156.1 Datomatic movement, the A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus Chronograph is a bona fide show stopper and one of the hottest releases of 2023 so far.

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Piaget polo field
Piaget Polo Field | Image: Piaget

Piaget Polo Field

  • Brand: Piaget
  • Model: Polo Field
  • Diameter: 42mm
  • Calibre: 1110P
  • Power Reserve: 50 hours
  • Price: AUD$19,300

While the Polo Date was a big hit, we feel that the new Piaget Polo Field is bang on the money. With its dark emerald dial combined with the Polo’s signature curves and lines, the Polo Field looks to be a more refined, sophisticated and wholly captivating affair.

Powering the Piaget Polo Field is the maison’s calibre 1110P, a tried and tested movement that boasts 50 hours of power reserve and measures only 4mm in thickness. This contributes to the Polo Field’s already very thin proportions of 9.4mm. An outstanding piece.

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Vacheron constantin overseas moon phase retrograde date
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Moon Phase Retrograde Date | Image: Vacheron Constantin

Vacheron Constantin Overseas Moon Phase Retrograde Date

  • Brand: Vacheron Constantin
  • Model: Overseas Moon Phase Retrograde Date
  • Reference Number: 4000V/210A-B911
  • Diameter: 41mm
  • Water Resistance: 50m
  • Calibre: 2460 R31L/2
  • Power Reserve: 40 hours
  • Price: TBC

For the first time ever in the collection, Vacheron Constantin has incorporated a retrograde display into an Overseas model. The end result is the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Moon Phase Retrograde Date. This is a delightful piece that brings the best of both worlds: true high complicated watchmaking with the practicality and versatility that is the Overseas line.

The gorgeous blue lacquered dial is legible, with the retrograde indicator displaying the date at the top of the dial, and the moonphase at the bottom of the dial. The moonphase itself is beautiful and works well with the refined look of the steel case. Just Vacheron doing Vacheron.

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Patek philippe 5224r calatrava 24 hour display travel time
Patek Philippe 5224R Calatrava 24-Hour Display Travel Time | Image: Patek Philippe

Patek Philippe 5224R Calatrava 24-Hour Display Travel Time

  • Brand: Patek Philippe
  • Model: Calatrava 24-Hour Display Travel Time
  • Reference Number: 5224R-001
  • Diameter: 31.74mm
  • Water Resistance: 30m
  • Calibre: 31-260 PS FUS 24H
  • Power Reserve: 48 hours
  • Price: AUD$83,850

Practicality meets Patek Philippe with the new 5224R Calatrava 24-Hour Display Travel Time. Encased in its just-shy-of 32mm rose gold case is a navy-blue dial with a 24-hour display. The 5224R Calatrava 24-Hour Display Travel Time is super understated but quintessentially everything that Patek Philippe does best.

This is reinforced further when you peer through the open sapphire caseback. First off you see that wonderful platinum micro-rotor. Then you see the ornately shaped and decorated bridges. And as you continue peering deeper and deeper, you quickly realise why Patek Philippe is the best in the business.

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Arnold son double tourbillon
Arnold & Son Double Tourbillon | Image: Arnold & Son

Arnold & Son Double Tourbillon

  • Brand: Arnold & Son
  • Model: Double Tourbillon
  • Diameter: 43.50mm
  • Water Resistance: 30m
  • Calibre: A&S8513
  • Power Reserve: 90 hours
  • Price: Piece unique

A piece unique from Arnold & Son in the form of the Double Tourbillon. Crafted in white gold and featuring a magnificent malachite dial, the Arnold & Son Double Tourbillon is a sight to behold and leaves little to the imagination.

Boasting a sense of balance amongst some very complicated watchmaking, the focal point here is one of many things. From the double tourbillons at the equator of the dial, to that wonderful green of the malachite, the Arnold & Son Double Tourbillon delivers on multiple fronts.

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Ferdinand berthoud chronometre fb 2t 2
Ferdinand Berthoud Chronométre FB 2T.2 | Image: Ferdinand Berthoud

Ferdinand Berthoud Chronométre FB 2T.2

  • Brand: Ferdinand Berthoud
  • Model: Chronométre FB 2T.2
  • Reference Number: FB 2T.2
  • Diameter: 44mm
  • Water Resistance: 30m
  • Calibre: FB-T.FC-2
  • Power Reserve: 53 hours
  • Price: CHF255,000

Clad in rose gold with a black satin-brushed dial, the Ferdinand Berthoud Chronométre FB 2T.2 is one of those if-you-know-you-know pieces. Undeniably complicated and inexplicably beautiful, the Ferdinand Berthoud Chronométre FB 2T.2 is a mindblowing timepiece that begs the question, what else can compare?

What we have with the Ferdinand Berthoud Chronométre FB 2T.2 is a tourbillon with a fusee-and-chain transmission. The complexity beneath that lovely black dial of the Ferdinand Berthoud Chronométre FB 2T.2 is unquestionably immense, as is the decoration throughout. One of those watches that needs to be seen to be believed and understood.

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Grand seiko masterpiece collection spring drive limited edition
Grand Seiko Masterpiece Collection Spring Drive Limited-Edition | Image: Grand Seiko

Grand Seiko Masterpiece Collection Spring Drive Limited-Edition

  • Brand: Grand Seiko
  • Model: Masterpiece Collection Spring Drive Limited-Edition
  • Reference Number: SBGZ009
  • Diameter: 38.50mm
  • Water Resistance: 30m
  • Calibre: 9R02
  • Power Reserve: 84 hours
  • Price: USD$79,000

And finally we have from Grand Seiko the Masterpiece Collection Spring Drive Limited-Edition. Featuring a hand engraved dial and platinum case inspired by the white birch forest in winter, the new Grand Seiko Masterpiece Collection Spring Drive Limited-Edition is a textural delight and a loupe-fiend’s dream.

I really like how Grand Seiko has extended the textural component of the watch from the dial to the case, giving the Masterpiece Collection Spring Drive Limited-Edition another visceral dimension, adding to its already very enthralling aesthetic. Of course, no Grand Seiko is complete without an equally as beautiful movement, where in this case it’s the hand wound calibre 9R02.

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Patek philippe 6300r grandmaster chime
Patek Philippe 6300R Grandmaster Chime | Image: Patek Philippe

Patek Philippe 6300R Grandmaster Chime

  • Brand: Patek Philippe
  • Model: 6300R Grandmaster Chime
  • Reference Number: 6300GR-001
  • Diameter: 47.7mm
  • Calibre: Calibre 300 GS AL 36‑750 QIS FUS IRM
  • Power Reserve: 72 hours
  • Price: Price on request

Yes, Patek did. Here is one of the most absurdly complicated watches on the planet, now in white gold with rose gold pushers, crown, minute repeater slider and swivel links. This “two-tone” variant is a serious bit of kit and its dramatic aesthetic is fitting given what a feat of haute horlogerie magnificence the 6300R truly is.

Underneath the surface lies 20 complications, which makes it the most complicated Patek Philippe in current production. The striking mechanism itself features three gongs and five chiming modes: grande sonnerie, petite sonnerie, minute-repeater and two patented world exclusives – an alarm sounding the programmed time and a date-repeater striking the date at will. And that’s just the tip of the iceberg.

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Piaget polo perpetual calendar obsidian
Piaget Polo Perpetual Calendar Obsidian | Image: Piaget

Piaget Polo Perpetual Calendar Obsidian

  • Brand: Piaget
  • Model: Polo Perpetual Calendar Obsidian
  • Reference Number: GOA48007
  • Diameter: 42mm
  • Water Resistance: 30m
  • Calibre: 1255
  • Power Reserve: 42 hours
  • Price: €116,000

The Piaget Polo Perpetual Calendar hit the market a few months ago, and it was a serious winner (in our books, anyway). Here is arguably the coolest and most blinged out version, the Piaget Polo Perpetual Calendar Obsidian. It has a white gold case with an obsidian dial, and looks the absolute goods.

Powering the Piaget Polo Perpetual Calendar Obsidian is the maison’s in-house calibre 1255 which is visible through the open sapphire caseback. The dial is one of the focal points of the piece, with this particular stone being produced when lava cools rapidly, and its natural iridescence formed when drops of mineral-rich sulphide liquid are trapped as it solidifies. Very cool stuff.

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Zenith pilot big date flyback
Zenith Pilot Big Date Flyback | Image: Zenith

Zenith Pilot Big Date Flyback

  • Brand: Zenith
  • Model: Pilot Big Date Flyback
  • Reference Number: 03.4000.3652/21.I001
  • Diameter: 40mm
  • Water Resistance: 100m
  • Calibre: El Primero 3620
  • Power Reserve: 60 hours
  • Price: USD$11,500

From Zenith, here’s the new Pilot Big Date Flyback. This is a bold, oversized watch fit for daily use and making a statement. It has a next-gen patented compliant mechanism that advances and stabilises both of the big date’s wheels in less than 0.03 seconds. The Zenith Pilot Big Date Flyback also has a flyback chronograph, identifiable through the bold red central hand.

The Zenith Pilot Big Date Flyback is powered by the maison’s El Primero 3652 movement, which boasts a date indicator, a chronograph with flyback function as well as that instantaneous big date jump. The Zenith Pilot Big Date Flyback is an impressive watch that’s very different to what we’ve been seeing from Zenith lately.

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Panerai radiomir annual calendar goldtech pam01363
Panerai Radiomir Annual Calendar Goldtech PAM01363 | Image: Panerai

Panerai Radiomir Annual Calendar Goldtech PAM01363

  • Brand: Panerai
  • Model: Radiomir Annual Calendar Goldtech PAM01363
  • Reference Number: PAM01363
  • Diameter: 45mm
  • Water Resistance: 100m
  • Calibre: P.9010/AC
  • Power Reserve: 72 hours
  • Price: AUD$59,700

Panerai had an epic showing too, with its highlight being the Radiomir Annual Calendar Goldtech PAM01363. Distinctly different from what we normally see in the perpetual calendar niche, the Radiomir Annual Calendar Goldtech PAM01363 has one of the most legible perpetual calendar dials we’ve ever come across.

From the day-date apertures to the ingenious month indicator that follows the chapter ring of the dial, the Radiomir Annual Calendar Goldtech PAM01363 has all the goods to make it a bona fide perpetual calendar staple. Couple that with those gorgeous wire lugs, exposed crown and Goldtech material, and what you have in the Radiomir Annual Calendar Goldtech PAM01363 is an absolute winner.

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Jaeger lecoultre reverso hybris artistica calibre 179
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Hybris Artistica Calibre 179 | Image: Jaeger-LeCoultre

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Hybris Artistica Calibre 179

  • Brand: Jaeger-LeCoultre
  • Model: Reverso Hybris Artistica Calibre 179
  • Reference Number: Q39424E1
  • Diameter: 51.2mm
  • Water Resistance: 30m
  • Calibre: Calibre 179
  • Power Reserve: 40 hours
  • Price: TBC 

The first of two Jaeger-LeCoultres that really caught our eye is the brilliant Reverso Hybris Artistica Calibre 179. A marriage of the maison’s technical prowess and the finest artistic craftsmanship, the Reverso Hybris Artistica Calibre 179 is an exceptional example of just how far Jaeger can push the Reverso envelope.

It features a Gyrotourbillon, which is visible on both front and reverse dials), as well as a second time zone with a 24-hour indicator and the hour and minute indicators. The Reverso Hybris Artistica Calibre 179 comes in a pink gold case, with one of its dials being blue lacquered and the other skeletonised. Pretty epic.

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Jaeger lecoultre reverso tribute chronograph
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Chronograph | Image: Jaeger-LeCoultre

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Chronograph

  • Brand: Jaeger-LeCoultre
  • Model: Reverso Tribute Chronograph
  • Reference Number: Pink Gold (Q389257J)/Steel (Q389848J)
  • Diameter: 29.9mm
  • Water Resistance: 30m
  • Calibre: Calibre 860
  • Power Reserve: 52 hours
  • Price: USD$37,400 (Pink Gold)/USD$21,400 (Steel)

The second piece from Jaeger-LeCoultre is the Reverso Tribute Chronograph. The ultimate stealth watch, the Reverso Tribute Chronograph is definitely one of the highlights of Watches & Wonders 2023. Available in pink gold or steel, the Reverso Tribute Chronograph features a closed dial in black for the pink gold case, or grey for the steel case model.

But the real fun of the Reverso Tribute Chronograph is on the reverse side, which has a skeletonised dial which displays the piece’s chronograph and inner workings of that magnificent calibre 860. So. Much. Want.

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Hublot square bang sapphire
Hublot Square Bang Sapphire | Image: Hublot

Hublot Square Bang Sapphire

  • Brand: Hublot
  • Model: Square Bang Sapphire
  • Reference Number: 821.JX.0120.RT
  • Diameter: 41mm
  • Water Resistance: 50m
  • Calibre: HUB1280
  • Power Reserve: 72 hours
  • Price: CHF90,000

Richard Mille, watch out, here comes Hublot! Okay, maybe we’re getting a bit ahead of ourselves, but seriously. The new Hublot Square Bang Sapphire is a very interesting timepiece that introduces a brand new shape for the watchmaker. The Square Bang, named after the maison’s iconic Big Bang, adds another element to the ‘Shaped Collection’, sitting firmly beside the Spirit of Big Bang.

It features a sapphire crystal case crafted in a modular fashion with a flyback chronograph. The benefit of using sapphire is that you can literally see “through” the watch. It’s a very cool concept that is becoming super popular, and it’s interesting to see Hublot using it, especially with a new collection.

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