The Wind Up – Watch News #314

In the watch world, time never stands still, so allow us to catch you up on the latest news. In this edition of our regular watch column, The Wind Up, Grand Seiko celebrates the majesty of Mt Iwate, Piaget unveils a stunning new Flying Tourbillon Moonphase, Credor makes us green with envy and OMEGA drops a vintage-inspired timepiece that harks back to the golden age of manual winding wonders. IIt’s been a blockbuster week in the world of watches, so strap in and enjoy.

Piaget Polo Flying Tourbillon Moonphase

• Brand: Piaget
• Model: Polo Flying Tourbillon Moonphase
• Reference: Ref. G0A49080
• Diameter: 44mm
• Thickness: 9.80mm
• Movement: Calibre 642P
• Power Reserve: 40 hours
• Water Resistance: 100m
• Price: €113,000 (Limited to 88 pieces)

Piaget made waves last week, expanding its Polo collection to include the most complicated reference yet, the Polo Flying Tourbillon Moonphase. The lay to claim by Piaget here is the fact that this is a bona fide, and rightfully so, flagship model for the Polo collection. The combination of some truly high-end manufactured watchmaking with the model’s innate sporty qualities.

For this new timepiece, Piaget borrowed heavily from its Altiplano archives, utilising an ultra-thin and remarkably accurate movement for its size. At just 9.8mm thick, the Piaget Polo Flying Tourbillon Moonphase boasts the impressive calibre 642P movement, which at just 4mm thick, makes for a ridiculous piece of kit. This movement is housed within a 44mm-diameter titanium case that alternates between polished and satin-brushed surfaces.

The Piaget Polo Flying Tourbillon Moonphase appeals to me because it balances open working, finishing, and practicality. The case measures wide but thin, the flying tourbillon is on full display, and the aperture displays some very fine finishing. Titanium, solid water resistance, and a price tag that isn’t too extravagant (relatively speaking, of course) make the Piaget Polo Flying Tourbillon Moonphase an absolute winner.

Credor Locomotive GCCR997

• Brand: Credor
• Model: Locomotive
• Reference: Ref. GCCR997
• Diameter: 38.80mm
• Thickness: 8.90mm
• Movement: Calibre CR01
• Power Reserve: 45 hours
• Water Resistance: 100m
• Price: €14,500

New from Credor is the Locomotive GCCR997; a stunning new releases that boasts a rich-green dial with textural hexagons. In essence, the Locomotive is perhaps one of the most enigmatic pieces to come out of Gerald Genta’s prolific portfolio. Yes, that Genta — Nautilus, Royal Oak — him. The Locomotive perhaps doesn’t get held in the same light as the other two icons, but it does have a certain appeal to it that stems from its subtle yet notable details.

Design-wise, the Locomotive is best characterised by its ultra-thin construction, which comes by way of the CR01 movement. The very sae calibre that we saw on last year’s 50th anniversary piece, CR01 measures in at just 3.7mm in height, however, still offers a 4Hz beat rate and power reserve of 45 hours.

The design has a very specific geometric look to it, built upon the high-intensity titanium case. The hexagon theme is very much the leading visceral feature here: from the dial to the case, the bezel and the bezel screws, the hexagon reigns supreme here. Lovers of green, Japan and hexagons, the new Locomotive could perhaps be your next addition.

OMEGA Seamaster 37 mm Milano Cortina 2026

• Brand: OMEGA
• Model: Seamaster 37 mm Milano Cortina 2026
• Reference: Ref. 522.53.37.20.04.001
• Diameter: 37mm
• Thickness: 11.40mm
• Movement: Calibre 8807
• Power Reserve: 55 hours
• Water Resistance: 100m
• Price: AUD$31,975 (USD$19,300)

OMEGA celebrated its partnership with the Winter Olympics by releasing the beautiful Seamaster 37 mm Milano Cortina 2026. Paying tribute to the Seamaster Olympic made for the 1956 Melbourne Games, the Seamaster 37 mm Milano Cortina 2026 has all of the trademark details that qualify it as a homage, or re-issue if you will.

From the unique “dog leg” lugs to the white grand feu enamel dial and hexagonal crown, the Seamaster 37 mm Milano Cortina 2026 is a fitting tribute piece made that much better by the 18k Moonshine Gold case and rock-solid Calibre 8807. Brilliant stuff.

Grand Seiko Evolution 9 Hi-Beat 36000 80 Hours Limited Edition

• Brand: Grand Seiko
• Model: Evolution 9 Hi-Beat 36000
• Reference: Ref. SLGH027
• Diameter: 40mm
• Thickness: 11.7mm
• Movement: Calibre 9SA5 automatic
• Power Reserve: 80 hours
• Water-Resistance: 100 metres
• Availability: Limited to 1,200 pieces
• Price: AUD$15,700 (€11,300)

From Grand Seiko, we have the new Evolution 9 Hi-Beat 36000 80 Hours Limited Edition. Sporting a textured dial inspired by the ridges of Mount Iwate, a volcano near Grand Seiko’s Shizukuishi workshop, the new Evolution 9 Hi-Beat 36000 80 Hours Limited Edition is the quintessential Grand Seiko, topped off by the Zaratsu-finished Ever-Brilliant steel case.

Being part of the Evolution 9 family, the Hi-Beat 36000 is, somewhat unsurprisingly, a powerhouse. The watch is equipped with the much-revered calibre 9SA5 movement, which uses a nifty dual impulse escapement and twin barrels to deliver a whopping 80-hour power reserve. The case and bracelet are positioned to ergonomic perfection and constructed from ‘Ever-Brilliant Steel’, an advanced form of stainless steel that offers improved corrosion resistance and shine. Grooved indexes and prominent hands amount to supreme legibility no matter what the environment or activity.

The Ever-Brilliant steel case is actually a proprietary alloy with better-than-usual corrosion resistance, complete with a brighter finish. The cherry on top of the high-frequency Calibre 9SA5 movement, which features the maison’s proprietary Dual Impulse Escapement, is visible through the open caseback.