In this instalment of our regular watch series, The Wind Up, we have some pretty amazing timepieces we want to showcase for you. We’ve got a couple of beauties from Montblanc, an exciting revelation from Omega, an homage piece from Vacheron and a very wearable travel companion from Bremont. So as always guys, sit back, relax and enjoy!
Montblanc 1858 Chronograph Tachymeter Limited Edition
Bronze is the theme here, and not many manufacturers have done it as well as Montblanc with their 1858 Chronograph. This monopusher chrono is seriously gorgeous. Having played with one myself some time ago, I can definitively attest to that statement. The sunburst salmon-coloured dial contrasts effortlessly between the roughened bronze case, and it serves as the perfect backdrop to the patina-filled hands and hour numerals, as well as the blued steel hands. Turn the watch over and honestly it’s like the cherry on top of an already super indulgent cupcake. This movement looks like something Patek, Vacheron or even Lange would have produced. It is completely and utterly impressive, and for Montblanc to be producing such a spectacular timepiece both from a mechanical and a visceral perspective, only time will tell when they will get their spot on centre stage. Not at all bad.
Montblanc TimeWalker Automatic Chronograph
And on the other end of the spectrum we have the TimeWalker Automatic Chronograph in gold. This is a whole other ball game. Where the 1858 Chronograph Tachymeter was classical and a bit conservative, the TimeWalker etches in a new wave of horological wristwear for Montblanc. Super modern, ultra contemporary and extremely relevant to the style demands of the 21st century, the TimeWalker is exactly what Montblanc needed to propel itself into a very young market. This piece won’t exactly appeal to the old regiment of watch collectors and enthusiasts, but to the new age “watchonista” like myself, it ticks all of the right boxes. Brash and aggressive looking, this no-bars-held watch is Montblanc’s attempt at doing something a little bit different, and to be honest with you it works. For young and exuberant watchmaking manufacturers, there are going to be plenty of hit and misses. This, as far as I’m aware, is a complete and utter hit. Well played, Montblanc, well played.
Bremont 1918 Limited Edition Chronograph GMT
Perhaps the perfect travel buddy, the 1918 Chronograph GMT packs a lot of punch in a remarkably refined and restrained package. As the name implies, it incorporates a chronograph as well as a GMT function. But it’s also got a few other tricks up its sleeve. For starters, what you may think of as the moonphase indicator at 6 o’clock is actually the AM/PM indicator for the GMT hand. See, the GMT hand can only show the time in a 12-hour format, so the AM/PM indicator will tell you whether it’s day or night in your chosen city. PM is indicated by the night sky, while AM is indicated by two military aircraft flying through a beautiful blue sky. Very inventive, and very entertaining. Add all these complications together, and you have yourself a fantastic timepiece. But we’re not done yet, no. See that little window between 4 and 5 o’clock. What’s that? Yep, a date indicator! This may be Bremont’s finest every day timepiece, and it’s one that has really shift my opinion about the brand. Exciting stuff, and I’m even more excited to see what they’ll bring out next.
Omega Speedmaster Orbis
To celebrate World Sight Day, Omega unveiled the Speedmaster Orbis, built to support their continued partnership with an initiative that has successfully carried out medical and optical programs in more than 90 countries around the world. A portion of all sales of the Speedmaster Orbis will go to continuing to support this incredible company and its future endeavours. The piece itself is really quite impressive. At 38mm it does seem a tad undersized, but looking at the watch from a holistic perspective it does seem to work. The sub-dials are oval shaped in a horizontal orientation, which will add visual width to the dial. The sunburst blue pattern of the dial will also work in favour over increasing the overall “size” of the piece, as will the exposed crown and pushers. The light blue hints on the dial contrast wonderfully against the deeper blue of the sunburst dial and the baby blue on the sub-dials finish off a very cool, very soft aesthetic. The Speedmaster Orbis is a clean design and I’m fairly impressed with it, but what it stands for is so much more important and for that I’d like to commend Omega on offering their support to such a noble cause.
Vacheron Constantin Historiques Triple Calendrier 1948
It’s funny. Rewind a year or so ago and my interest (or lack thereof) in this piece would have resulted it in missing being feature in this instalment of The Wind Up. Fast forward to here and now, and I resent the fact that I’m not the son of an oil tycoon. It’s funny how tastes change so rapidly. C’Est la vie, right? Anyway, the watch. Right. The Historiques Triple Calendrier 1948 is a homage model, based on the same piece in 1948. This is a very good looking watch, and its modern dimensions (40mm in width, 10.35mm in height) really do ensure longevity in this ever-changing market. Whichever way you look at it; this is a beautiful timepiece. The blue chapter ring on top of the off-white outer dial ring sandwiched between the creamy main dial and the 18k pink gold case is a spectacle that needs to be seen to be appreciated. It’s a subtle timepiece, very modest in its approach, but at the same time it can hold its own against the competition. The moonphase in the small-seconds sub-dial at 6 o’clock adds an element of visual entertainment, and the red-tipped arrow head of the date hand adds a bit of pop that resonates very well with the watch. Expensive, timeless and characteristically Vacheron, this is a timepiece presents itself exceptionally well.
If you enjoyed The Wind Up and would like to continue reading about watches, you can head on over to my blog, Haulogerie, where I delve a bit deeper into the wonderful world of watches.