TAG Heuer Just Unveiled the New ‘Future of Mechanical Watchmaking’

By Nick Hall - Sponsored

Published: 12 Sep 2025

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Readtime: 6 min

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Geneva Watch Days 2025 has only just kicked off and Swiss icon TAG Heuer has already laid down the gauntlet. The La Chaux-de-Fonds maison used the luxury watch fair to unveil not one, but three stunning new timepieces, each replete with a bevy of new complications and layouts. Intricately constructed, expertly finished and brimming with avant-garde attitude, the latest TAG Heuer pieces continue a profound legacy of innovation and design. However, it is the technology within them that is sending the watch world into overdrive.

TH-Carbonspring Oscillator

In a landmark move described as a “technical breakthrough that will shape the future of mechanical watchmaking,” TAG Heuer unveiled the all-new TH-Carbonspring oscillator. A contemporary take on Dutch polymath Christian Huygens’ 17th-century invention, this iteration introduces a carbon fibre balance spring; a first for the watchmaking industry.

Originally, oscillator mechanisms included a steel hairspring that allowed watchmakers to control the oscillation of the balance wheel to improve timekeeping precision and portability. In recent years, watchmakers have shifted to silicon balance springs due to their low maintenance and high resistance properties, but with the TH-Carbonspring oscillator, TAG Heuer is taking things in an entirely new direction.

TAG Heuer Monaco Flyback Chronograph TH-Carbonspring

• Brand: TAG Heuer
• Model: Monaco Flyback Chronograph TH-Carbonspring
• Reference: Ref. CBL5190.FT6313
• Diameter: 39mm
• Thickness: 14.1mm
• Case Material: Black forged carbon case
• Movement: Calibre TH20-60
• Power Reserve: 80 hours
• Water-Resistance: 100 metres
• Price: CHF 17,000
• Availability: December 2025

The TH-Carbonspring oscillator, developed by TAG Heuer’s in-house watchmakers, engineers, and technicians, reportedly took a decade of research and development. The mechanism features an amagnetic hairspring resistant to magnetism and shocks, produced from ultra-lightweight carbon. Aside from improving ergonomics, the weight reduction enhances chronometric performance, boosts environmental resistance, and provides long-term stability. To give you an idea of how fresh this technology is, the maison confirmed that four patents have been filed, one of which has already been approved.

Importantly, this isn’t just a prototype. To bring the new technology to life, TAG Heuer turned to its most emblematic designs, unveiling a Monaco and a Carrera, each fitted with the TH-Carbonspring. The watches feature a case forged from a lightweight, highly resistant carbon fibre, a nod to TAG Heuer’s motorsport pedigree and bespoke carbon fibre detailing. The forged carbon dials are decorated with a spiral that mirrors the hairspring’s snail shape. Both new watches will be limited to just 50 numbered pieces and presented in bespoke packaging.

TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon Extreme Sport TH-Carbonspring

• Brand: TAG Heuer
• Model: Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon Extreme Sport TH-Carbonspring
• Reference: Ref. CBU5091.FT6305
• Diameter: 44mm
• Thickness: 15.4mm
• Case Material: Black forged carbon case
• Movement: Calibre TH20-61
• Power Reserve: 65 hours
• Water-Resistance: 100 metres
• Price: CHF 40,000
• Availability: Q1 2026

Reaching for the Stars

While much of Geneva Watch Days conversation centred around the future, TAG Heuer wasn’t afraid to revisit the past, either. The watchmaker also used the event to announce three new references under the unique Carrera Astronomer moniker. A nod to astronaut John H. Glenn Jr, who famously wore a modified Heuer 2915A stopwatch on route to becoming the first American to orbit Earth in 1962, the latest collection signals a bold new step into the unknown for TAG Heuer.

Traditionally associated with motor racing through collections such as the Monaco, Autavia and Formula 1, this all-new release sees TAG Heuer tackle the final frontier. Central to the 39mm Carrera Astronomer design is the newly released Calibre 7 mechanical movement, a remarkable innovation that powers an equally noteworthy moonphase complication.

At 6 o’clock, a rotating disc presents seven illustrated moon stages, clearly showing the moon’s current phase and position in the 29.5-day cycle. Flanked by two slender arrows calibrated for daily motion, the display advances each day at 1:00am. According to TAG Heuer, this synchronisation elevates accuracy and strengthens the sense of connection between the wearer and the lunar cycle. On the reverse, the caseback reveals an astronomical observatory, a tribute to the timepiece’s cosmic inspiration. It is accompanied by the Victory Wreath, symbolising triumph and enduring excellence.

TAG Heuer Carrera Astronomer

• Brand: TAG Heuer
• Model: Carrera Astronomer
• Reference: Ref. WBX2112.FC6615 / Ref. WBX2110.BA0044 / Ref. WBX2111.BD0002
• Diameter: 39mm
• Thickness: 12.16mm
• Case Material: Steel polished case / Steel fine-brushed, polished case / Steel fine-brushed, polished case
• Movement: Calibre 7
• Power Reserve: 50 hours
• Water-Resistance: 100 metres
• Available: October 2025
• Price: 4,350 / 4,550 / 6,900

As confirmed at Geneva Watch Days 2025, the TAG Heuer Carrera Astronomer will launch with three distinct references. The first, a stainless steel release with a silver dial and contrasting black flange and black moonphase disc, will form part of the core Carrera collection. Complete with rhodium-plated hands coated with white Super-LumiNova for legibility, the monochromatic piece is designed to evoke the “stillness of space”. This model also features a modern interpretation of the maison’s iconic beads of rice bracelet design from the 1960s, further connecting the new timepiece with its historic codes. This model also features rhodium-plated hands coated with white Super-LumiNova for legibility.

The second edition is limited to 500 individually numbered pieces and features a silver dial framed by a dark grey flange and Super-LumiNova-enhanced turquoise accents. The luminous details, visible on the Arabic numerals, hands and moonphase display, give this piece a more futuristic tone, which pairs perfectly with the new collection’s cosmic ethos.

Finally, the Ref. WBX2111.BD0002 adds a touch of luxury, introducing 18K 5N rose gold for a two-tone aesthetic. The rich hues are most visible on the rose gold-plated flange and matching hands, which have again been filled with Super-LumiNova, along with the Arabic numerals. For this limited-edition reference, capped at 500 pieces worldwide, the moonphase display is rendered in a tone-on-tone palette, subtly integrated into the composition. All three TAG Heuer Carrera Astronomer models will be available to purchase online and in boutiques starting October 2025, with prices ranging from CHF 4,350 to CHF 6,900.

If you ask us, what makes the latest collection stand out isn’t simply that it’s entirely new, but that the brand is moving beyond its traditional territory. For decades, the maison has been inextricably linked to motor racing, courtesy of its ties to Formula 1 and its rich history of timing instruments. The Carrera Astronomer signals the beginning of a bold new era where TAG Heuer has its sights set on territory not yet discovered.

Visit the official TAG Heuer online boutique for more information on the latest product releases or to read more about the maison’s Geneva Watch Days 2025 releases.