With 75 years of heritage in its perfectly-tailored back pocket, iconic fashion Maison Dior is getting the party started. The new Dior Men’s Autumn-Winter 22-23 collection explores the label’s history in full detail, playing off Parisian culture with trademark ease and just a touch of opulence. Classic high fashion pieces such as the iconic Bar Jacket, the Saddle Bag and more are reinterpreted through a prism of modernity by creative director Kim Jones to weave what Dior calls an “emblematic connection between today and tomorrow”.
Lookign at the collection as a whole, it’s easy to see where Jones has referenced Christian Dior, exploring key themes of modernity in a poetic campaign that celebrates the spirit of Paris and the love of French fashion. The images captured by Rafael Pavarotti reveal a dreamlike setting, echoing the show’s set, which features the Alexandre III bridge as a symbol of the meeting between past, present and future. The fixture also becomes a symbolic bridge between Christian Dior and the Dior House today, while Rafael Pavarotti’s pictures also evoke a romantic reverie upon which silhouettes are drawn. As we’ve seen countless times with Dior’s menswear lineup, the house has been able to blend the formal with the informal, tailoring with sportswear, and style with functionality.
The fundamentals dear to monsieur Dior are woven into the looks, celebrating the timeless savoir-faire of the house’s ateliers. The iconic bar jacket is reinvented and transformed into a long coat version with sophisticated curves that give it structure, while a black leather version jacket features visible seam lines, revealing and further emphasizing their architectural construction.
Cannage is reinterpreted once more in quilted leather on jackets and coats, while leopard print adorns capes and berets. Taking inspiration from the myriad of flowers created in turn by the Vermont and Lesage ateliers through Dior’s history. Embroidered flowers are featured on a variety of magnified sweaters, jackets and collars for an ultra-contemporary look.
Mirroring that connection between tailoring and sportswear, draped formal jackets are contrasted with the tailored structure of workwear pants, while long grey wool felt coats reference Christian Dior’s architectural lens. A utilitarian dimension can also be seen in the new collection, with each of the season’s bags taking on a specific function, best seen in the gardening-inspired Dior Corolle Tote.
The Tokio mules and Milano sandals are dressed in felt or suede, in the colours of the season and the unmistakable Dior Gray. They feature the addition of rubber elements, as well as industrial buckles borrowed from the Saddlebag. As a final surprise, under the auspices of Stephen Jones, the men’s beret is presented in several versions. Reinterpreting Monsieur Dior’s archives, the men’s berets are punctuated with a fabric-covered button inspired by the Bar jacket, adding an elegant finishing note to Kim Jones’s looks and setting an undeniable ode to great French luxury. Well played Dior.