The Wind Up – Watch News #12

With SIHH 2016 done and dusted, we are on to the next international culmination of all things horology. Baselworld 2016 is an 8-day event held between the 17^th and the 24^th of March. Held at the Messe Basel in Basel, Switzerland, this event showcases products from a wide range of retailers from both ends of the spectrum. All in all, there will be about 1800 exhibitors showcasing their products to the ensuing crowds. Here is a list of some of the pieces expected to debut at Baselworld this coming March.

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Arnold & Son Constant Force Tourbillon

A superb piece from a very understated brand, the Constant Force Tourbillon combines technical prowess with traditional design architecture. The case is made of 18K red gold, but at 46 mm it may prove to be slightly larger than what a customer would want. The movement is a mechanical hand-wound A&S5119 calibre that incorporates a constant force mechanism, a tourbillon and a dead beat seconds mechanism. Limited to only 28 pieces and with a price tag well above the $200K mark, the Constant Force Tourbillon is definitely not for everyone, but for those 1%ers I say pull the trigger.

• Brand: Arnold & Son
• Model: Constant Force Tourbillon
• Reference: 1FCAR.B01A.C112C
• Case Diameter: 46 mm
• Case Material: 18K red gold (5N)
• Water Resistance: 30 m / 3 ATM
• Movement: Calibre A&S5119, hand-wound, one-minute tourbillon with patented constant force remontoire and dead-beat seconds; 36.8 mm diameter, 6 mm height, 39 jewels, 21,600 vph
• Power Reserve: 90 hours
• Strap: Hand-stitched brown alligator leather with pin buckle
• Price: Approx. AUD$200,000+ (Price at launch) — CHF 174,900 / USD 197,500 at Baselworld 2015; limited to 28 pieces

Rado True Open Heart

New from Rado is their futuristic looking True Open Heart. Made of a white ceramic, the piece well and truly could be something from the future. The case is super light due to it being completely made of ceramic, yet proves to be extremely durable and much stronger than its steel counterparts. Flowing lines and monochromatic design make this watch extremely pleasant to look at, and the mother-of-peal open dial complements the uniform nature of the white case very well. An automatic calibre ETA C07.631 provides about 80 hours of power reserve and is limited to only 500 pieces.

• Brand: Rado
• Model: True Open Heart
• Reference: 734.0106.3.090
• Case Diameter: 40.1 mm
• Case Thickness: 10.4 mm
• Case Material: Polished white high-tech ceramic (zirconium oxide), monobloc construction
• Water Resistance: 50 m
• Movement: ETA C07.631, self-winding automatic, 25 jewels
• Power Reserve: 80 hours
• Strap: Three-row polished white high-tech ceramic bracelet with titanium folding buckle
• Price (at launch): EUR 2,110 (limited to 500 pieces)

Shop Rado watches at Rado.com

Armin Strom Tourbillon Skeleton Earth

A brand that I have yet to feature in my blog, Armin Strom combines the absurd with practicality to produces piece that entice and mesmerise. The Tourbillon Skeleton Earth is another edition to an already impressive line up. The case, made up of black PVD-treated steel holds within it a spectacle to marvel at. The skeletonised dial showing the beautiful calibre ATC11-S can capture your attention, and keep it for hours on end. The tourbillon is deep, fully skeletonised and adds another dimension (or two) to the dial. Unsurprisingly, the piece costs more than we would like to think, but given the fact that you get something that I can assure you no one else in a 2000km radius will have, it will be money very well spent.

• Brand: Armin Strom
• Model: Tourbillon Skeleton Earth
• Reference: ST15-TE.90
• Case Diameter: 43.4 mm
• Case Thickness: 13 mm
• Case Material: Stainless steel with black PVD coating
• Water Resistance: 50 m
• Movement: Manual-wind in-house Calibre ATC11-S with 1-minute tourbillon at 9 o’clock, fully skeletonised
• Power Reserve: 10 days (240 hours)
• Strap: Black hornback alligator with black PVD double-folding clasp; black rubber strap included
• Price (at launch): Approx. CHF 88,000

Oris Carl Brashear Limited Edition

You either like Oris or you don’t. There is no grey area here. I really enjoy Oris and their brand direction, having nearly pulled the trigger on one of their diver’s pieces a year or so ago. But they do cop a lot of flack, and I can understand why. They constantly release “limited editions” that are not that different to their standard counterparts but command a much higher price tag. Anyway, I like them, and so should you. The Carl Brashear Limited Edition is a tribute to the U.S. Navy’s first African American master diver (hats off to you, sir). A great achievement in light of the cultural differences back then. The piece has a unique case created by a process of oxidation to produce a distinctive patina. As new, the patina is bright and shiny, but will age uniquely to the individual’s habits. This means that in 10 years time each piece will look different, which I think is awesome. Limited run of 2000 pieces under $5K make it a no brainer, but only if you find one.

• Brand: Oris
• Model: Carl Brashear Limited Edition
• Reference: 01 733 7720 3185-Set LS
• Case Diameter: 42mm
• Case Material: Bronze (oxidised multi-piece case with bronze minute scale ring)
• Water Resistance: 100m / 10 bar
• Movement: Oris Cal. 733, automatic (based on Sellita SW200-1), 28,800 vph, 26 jewels
• Power Reserve: 38 hours
• Strap: Dark brown leather with bronze pin buckle
• Price (at launch): CHF 2,600 (limited to 2,000 pieces; Australian article confirmed under AUD$5,000 at launch)

Shop Oris watches at Oris.ch

Frederique Constant Horological Smartwatch

Oh no! Another smartwatch from Switzerland! Fear not purists, this one is a little bit different. Having seen one in the flesh, I can safely say that I am sold. The combination of classic design and cutting edge modern day technology means that this piece ticks all my boxes (except for the Roman numerals, of course). The watch tracks daytime activity as well as sleep patterns, or extended periods of immobilisation. You can then sync the watch’s information to the MotionX-365 application on your mobile phone. Obviously a quartz calibre, the FC-285 will give a couple of years worth of charge to the watch. Priced a bit higher than I would be willing to pay for it, but it is a good all rounder.

• Brand: Frederique Constant
• Model: Horological Smartwatch Powered by MotionX
• Reference: FC-285 family (e.g. FC-285S5B6 leather / FC-285NS5B4 bracelet; multiple dial and strap variants)
• Case Diameter: 42mm
• Case Thickness: 13.35mm
• Case Material: Stainless steel (rose gold PVD-plated on select variants)
• Water Resistance: 50m
• Movement: Calibre FC-285 (MMT-285) — Swiss quartz with integrated Bluetooth Low Energy, accelerometer, activity and sleep tracking; syncs with MotionX-365 app
• Power Reserve: Approx. 25 months (standard coin cell battery)
• Strap: Leather strap (black, brown, or blue; reference-dependent); stainless steel bracelet option available
• Price (at launch): EUR 995 (leather strap, standard steel); EUR 1,095 (steel bracelet); EUR 1,295 (rose gold PVD)

Shop Frederique Constant watches

Hublot Big Bang Unico Sapphire

I know I tend to give Hublot a lot of s**t whenever I describe their watches, but I’m going to try and be as unbiased as I possibly can this time. The Unico Sapphire is made up entirely of sapphire, one of the hardest minerals you can possibly use (and one that can only be scratched by a diamond). The dial is also transparent, and with that you can literally see through the movement as it works. If anything, it is a spectacle piece that you would wear every once in a while to impress your friends. But, technically, it isn’t too shabby either. A fully automatic anthracite ruthenium 1242 Unico calibre with 36 jewels, a column-wheel chronograph, flyback function and double coupling clutch that can be used throughout its 72 hours of power reserve is nothing to laugh at. It is haute horlogerie, but not as we know it.

• Brand: Hublot
• Model: Big Bang Unico Sapphire
• Reference: 411.JX.4802.RT
• Case Diameter: 45mm
• Case Thickness: 15.45mm
• Case Material: Full sapphire crystal with titanium screws
• Water Resistance: 100m (330ft)
• Movement: Hublot Calibre HUB1242 (UNICO), automatic flyback chronograph, column wheel, double coupling clutch, 36 jewels
• Power Reserve: 72 hours
• Strap: Transparent structured rubber, push-button deployant clasp
• Price: Approx. USD$57,900 (at launch)

Shop the Hublot Big Bang collection

Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Off-Centered Onyx

A very avant-garde reinvention by Jaquet Droz sees a watch that is supremely simple and beautiful. A deep black adorns the expansive dial with two simple rings displaying the hours and minutes in one, and the sweeping seconds in the other. The crown at 4 o’clock does more to this piece than maybe even the designers thought, and adds another dimension to the already stunning spectacle. The triumph here is the precise aesthetic nature of the watch, and with the accompanying automatic calibre 2663A.P, it truly is a work of art. Extremely calming to look at and a play on your senses, the Onyx is magnificent.

• Brand: Jaquet Droz
• Model: Grande Seconde Off-Centered Onyx
• Reference: J006030270
• Case Diameter: 43mm
• Case Thickness: 12.75mm
• Case Material: Stainless steel
• Water Resistance: 30m
• Movement: Automatic, Jaquet Droz Calibre 2663A.P, 28,800 vph, 30 jewels
• Power Reserve: Approx. 68 hours
• Strap: Black alligator leather with tang buckle
• Price (at launch): USD$10,700

Read: Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde

Girard Perregaux 1966 Skeleton

It seems that a lot of the watches to be presented at this year’s Baselworld are combining contemporary flair with traditional design. The 1966 Skeleton is a culmination of old case design and new skeletonised dial directions. The gear train is rhodium-plated, while the plate and bridges have been treated to anthracite for a deeper, more refined finish. Meticulous detailing is unabashed and proudly displayed throughout the open-worked dial which displays the automatic calibre, wait for it, GP01800-0006 comprised of 176 components. Not cheap, not common and not something I would say no to.

• Brand: Girard-Perregaux
• Model: 1966 Skeleton
• Reference: 49549-52-001-BB60
• Case Diameter: 38 mm
• Case Thickness: 9.27 mm
• Case Material: 18k pink gold
• Water Resistance: 30 m (3 ATM)
• Movement: Automatic, Calibre GP01800-0006, 173 components, 25 jewels, 28,800 vph; anthracite ruthenium-treated plates and bridges, rhodium-plated gear train, skeletonised rotor
• Power Reserve: 54 hours
• Strap: Hand-stitched black alligator leather with 18k pink gold pin buckle
• Price (at launch): CHF 56,000

Shop Girard-Perregaux 1966 at site

Bulgari Serpenti Incantati

On a purely design-focused analysis, disregarding movement quality and finishing, this piece is stunning. Created to reflect a snake’s typical coiled resting position, the watch sits on the rest as would a snake of similar size. Adorned with diamond and rubellites, it is a beautiful combination of curves and sparkles that make this piece an instant eye-catcher. Priced expectedly high and so obviously made for the female watch aficionado, Bulgari have pulled out a design feat worthy of applause.

• Brand: Bulgari
• Model: Serpenti Incantati
• Reference: 102537
• Case Diameter: 30mm
• Case Material: 18kt pink gold, set with 79 brilliant-cut diamonds and 30 baguette-cut rubellites
• Water Resistance: 30m
• Movement: Quartz, Bulgari calibre B033
• Strap: Brown satin strap with 18kt pink gold pin buckle set with diamonds
• Price: Approx. EUR 40,600 (at launch)

Shop Bulgari watches

Artya Cumbere Tourbillon

To do different is not always the direction you would want to go down. It guarantees attention, but isn’t always the kind of attention you want. The Cumbere Tourbillon by Artya is precariously positioned on that dangerous line. In my humble opinion, it opens the doors for the typical consumer to try and understand Artya’s ethos. Overlook the ostentatious nature of the piece and reflect on the audacity that one must have to bypass tradition. A case that is unlike any other, and in a world where watch brands try so hard to change case design, that is not easy. Combine it with a dial that can be nothing short of artistically divine, and you have a sure-fire winner. But then you add a flying tourbillon inside of the MHC hand-wound calibre and you shut down the small niche you have just infiltrated. So far, as pre-Baselworld pieces come to light, this one for me is the standout. And do you really have to ask the price?

Shop ArtyA watches

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