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Best chronograph watches 1

23 Best Chronograph Watches: Luxury to Affordable


A massive part of the appeal of watches is the extra functions that manufacturers have created for us. When it comes to the best watches for men, there are a whole host of additional features that stretch far beyond simply telling the time. Not only are there watches that can function underwater or in space, but there are also models that can display multiple timezones, the date or even the phase of the moon. And one of the most popular complications is the chronograph. So here, we’ll walk you through our favourite chronograph models before taking a deep dive into the basics.

Put simply, there’s no more classic aesthetic than the traditional chronograph. With multiple pushers, a steadfast design and a series of versatile functions, any of the best chronograph watches chosen by our editors below will be right up your alley. Names like Rolex, IWC, Longines, and OMEGA have long been leaders in this segment, however, we’ve gone the extra step in finding great options for any budget.

Best Chronograph Watches at a Glance

Our list of the best chronographs goes like this.

RELATEDLooking for a great daily? Check out our list of the best pilot’s watches right here.

Speedmaster Professional Ref 310.30.42.50.01.001 | Image: OMEGA
Speedmaster Professional Ref 310.30.42.50.01.001 | Image: OMEGA

1. OMEGA Speedmaster Professional

  • Reference no: 310.30.42.50.01.001
  • Diameter: 42mm
  • Movement: Co-Axial Master Chronometer Calibre 3861
  • Case Material: Stainless Steel
  • Water resistance: 50M
  • Price: AUD$10,400

Of all the big names and famous chronographs, OMEGA’s Speedmaster, more often referred to as the Moonwatch, is the most iconic. Although its proven design has remained largely unchanged for more than half a century, it’s the unrivalled backstory that continues to make it a favourite among watch aficionados. When, in the ’60s, NASA solicited bids to supply watches to its astronauts, OMEGA came out ahead of Rolex and Longines. Buzz Aldrin would later wear his Speedmaster on the moon. The classic sports watch aesthetic remains as popular as ever and as for the heritage, well there can only ever be one ‘first watch on the moon’.

More recently, the iconic timepiece copped an upgrade, securing Master Chronometer certification. As we noted at the time, the OMEGA Speedmaster Professional was put through its paces over the course of 10 days; testing protection, anti-magnetic properties, reduced servicing, shock-resistance, water-resistance and durability.

“When updating a sacred timepiece like the Speedmaster Moonwatch, every detail must be true to its original spirit,” Raynald Aeschlimann, president and CEO of OMEGA, said at the time. “This chronograph is recognised the world over, so we’ve approached its design with the most sincere respect, while taking its movement to the next level.”

Starting at AUD$10,400, the Moonwatch isn’t exactly cheap, but considering its history, the price tag is fitting. Things do get rather ridiculous with the Canopus Gold on Canopus Gold model, however, which goes for AUD$69,150.

Read more about the OMEGA Speedmaster Professional Shop at OMEGA

Rolex Cosmograph Daytona Ref 126506 | Image: Rolex
Rolex Cosmograph Daytona Ref 126506 | Image: Rolex

2. Rolex Cosmograph Daytona

  • Reference no: 126506
  • Diameter: 40mm
  • Movement: 4131 Manufacture Rolex
  • Case Material: Platinum
  • Water resistance: 100M

If there’s another chronograph that can match the Speedmaster’s legendary status it’s the Daytona from OMEGA’s Swiss rival Rolex. It’s another sports-inspired piece, originally created for race drivers, and is one of the world’s most sought-after watches – it’s hard to buy retail and sells fast on the used market. The familiar three-register dial is a look that is often mimicked and is the standard against which other chronographs are judged.

The latest edition of the watch, which debuted at Watches & Wonders this year, takes the Cosmograph legacy to new heights. As we noted upon its release, this variation copped a redesigned Oyster case that offers more light reflections on the lugs and case sides, and Cerachrom bezel options have a thin line of the same metal that’s used on the middle case.

Naturally, the ice blue dial 950 platinum variant remains our top pick, but any of the pieces powered by the Rolex-designed calibre 4131 movement would be well worth your time. Of course, the new Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona’s carry the Superlative Chronometer certification promising accuracy of −2 /+2 seconds per day. This is a standard feature across the entire Rolex line-up.

Read more about the Rolex Cosmograph Daytona Shop at Rolex

Tissot PRX Chronograph Ref T137.427.11.011.00 | Image: Tissot
Tissot PRX Chronograph Ref T137.427.11.011.00 | Image: Tissot

3. Tissot PRX Chronograph

  • Reference no: T137.427.11.011.00
  • Diameter: 42mm
  • Movement: Valjoux A05 Automatic
  • Case Material: Stainless Steel
  • Water resistance: 100M
  • Price: AUD$2,900

Tissot’s PRX line is celebrated as a very affordable steel sports watch collection. It offers the same angular styling and integrated bracelet as high-end brands – think Audemars Piguet – but at a much more realistic price. Pretty impressive when you consider that the PRX is powered by a Swiss-made automatic movement and has a sumptuous retro dial.

One of our favourite watch releases of the past few years, the revamped PRX Automatic Chronograph is arguably the best-value timepiece on this list. The integrated bracelet and tapered case design is inspired by the original 1978 edition and perfectly compliments the 42mm diameter, which lands right in that sweet spot.

The PRX Chrono is powered by the Valjoux A05.H31 calibre, which provides the design with the classic 3, 6 and 9 chronograph dial layout and an extended 60-hour power reserve. It’s not exactly a ‘bells and whistles’ kind of release, but the Tissot PRX Automatic Chronograph is the kind of straightforward, uncomplicated release that everyone can get behind. And, as we noted at the time, with a price tag of just AUD$2,900, you simply can’t go wrong.

Read more about the Tissot PRX Shop at Tissot

Datograph Up/Down 405.035/LSLS4052AD | Image: A. Lange & Söhne
Datograph Up/Down 405.035/LSLS4052AD | Image: A. Lange & Söhne

4. A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Up/Down

  • Reference no: 405.035/LSLS4052AD
  • Diameter: 41mm
  • Movement: Manually Wound L951.6
  • Case Material: 950 Platinum
  • Water resistance: 30M
  • Price: Price Upon Request

German brand A. Lange & Söhne sits among the top tier of watchmakers and offers a real contrast to Tissot’s PRX range. Instead of the mass appeal and accessibility championed by the budget-friendly players, A. Lange & Söhne creates horological masterpieces in limited numbers. The Datograph Up/Down is a great example and features a flyback chronograph and the brand’s signature oversized date window. The dial is forged from solid silver and the case from platinum, meaning you can expect to pay nearly six figures for this beauty.

Philippe Dufour once dubbed the Datograph as the world’s best chronograph and over the years, it’s seen some changes. Most recently, A. Lange & Söhne upped the appeal by adding a mix of smoked sapphire and luminous material. Limited to only 200 pieces, the A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Up/Down Lumen is our top pick from the German icon.

Read more about the Datograph Up/Down Shop at A Lange & Sohne

Overseas Chronograph Ref 5500V/110A-B148 | Image: Vacheron Constantin
Overseas Chronograph Ref 5500V/110A-B148 | Image: Vacheron Constantin

5. Vacheron Constantin Overseas Chronograph

  • Reference no: 5500V/110A-B148
  • Diameter: 42.5mm
  • Movement: Calibre 5200
  • Case Material: Stainless Steel
  • Water resistance: 150M
  • Price: AUD$51,500

Sticking with high-end watchmaking here is Vacheron Constantin’s stunning Overseas Chronograph. While the collection dates back to 1977, it wasn’t until 1999 that a chronograph model was introduced. It’s now the brand’s most popular line and the most recent 5500V/110A-B686 and 5500V/110A-B148 models are among the best ever produced.

Aimed at travellers, but also influenced by 60s motor racing, this is an eye-catching piece. The mid-sized steel case has VCs distinctive six-sided Maltese Cross bezel and is equipped with an integrated bracelet. Like other famous releases such as the Royal Oak and Nautilus, this model is also equipped with an integrated bracelet. Sitting in a symmetrical pattern are three subdials, with a neat date window tucked away between 4 and 5 o’clock. It’s a bold aesthetic that showcases the brand’s pursuit of sporty elegance.

Inside, the Overseas Chronograph is powered by the brand’s own Calibre 5200, an automatic chronograph movement with a 52-hour power reserve. The 22K gold rotor is decorated with the symbol of travel and exploration – the wind rose – and is visible through the exhibition back.

Read more about the Overseas Chronograph  Shop at Vacheron Constantin

Breitling Navitimer B01 Ref AB0121211B1P1 | Image: Breitling
Breitling Navitimer B01 Ref AB0121211B1P1 | Image: Breitling

6. Breitling Navitimer B01

  • Reference no: AB0121211B1P1
  • Diameter: 43mm
  • Movement: Breitling 01 (Manufacture)
  • Case Material: Stainless Steel
  • Water resistance: 30M
  • Price: AUD$11,990

The Navitimer – taken from Navigation and Timer – is a pilot’s chronograph with bucketloads of history. The watch debuted in the 1950s and due to its use by large airlines became an icon of modern watchmaking. In 2022, the manufacturer dropped a swathe of new colour combinations, however, the 2023 edition is the true premier release.

This latest iteration is faithful to the original ethos and still boasts the bidirectional slide-rule bezel that lets pilots do quick calculations. It’s powered by Breitling’s own Calibre B01 chronograph movement and has an excellent power reserve of 70hrs. In terms of the dial layout, the new Navitimers feature two sub-dials and a neat date window repositioned to 6 o’clock. The busy dial, with its symmetrical layout, recreates the charm of the vintage models, while also meeting the requirements of a modern dress watch.

Read more about the Breitling Navitimer Shop at Breitling

Longines Spirit Flyback Ref L3.821.4.53.2 | Image: Longines
Longines Spirit Flyback Ref L3.821.4.53.2 | Image: Longines

7. Longines Spirit Flyback

  • Reference no: L3.821.4.53.2
  • Diameter: 42mm
  • Movement: Automatic Calibre L791
  • Case Material: Stainless Steel
  • Water resistance: 100M
  • Price: AUD$6,725

Longines Spirit collection pays tribute to pioneering adventurers of the past, with the Swiss brand having been the watch of choice for some of the biggest names in aviation. Both Amelia Earhart and Howard Hughes trusted Longines watches during their most memorable flights and the Longines Spirit Flyback celebrates that era in style. Featuring a 42mm steel case and an automatic flyback movement, it has strong militaristic vibes and distinctive bronze-coloured hands.

As we mentioned when it was first released, with this flyback chronograph, users can measure elapsed time by resetting the sweeping second hand without stopping the chronograph itself. This model also houses a certified chronometer movement with magnetic resistance and a silicon balance spring that cultivates supreme precision and a power reserve of 68 hours.

Read more about the Longines Spirit Flyback Shop at Longines

TAG Heuer Monaco Ref CAW211P.FC6356 | Image: TAG Heuer
TAG Heuer Monaco Ref CAW211P.FC6356 | Image: TAG Heuer

8. TAG Heuer Monaco

  • Reference no: CAW211P.FC6356
  • Diameter: 39mm
  • Movement: Calibre 11 Automatic
  • Case Material: Stainless Steel
  • Water resistance: 100M
  • Price: AUD$11,250

The Monaco by TAG Heuer is one of the most recognisable chronograph watches out there. The square case, matching square sub-dials and lefty crown make this racing-inspired watch insanely popular. It’s another model with a great backstory, having been worn by Steve Mcqueen, the King of Cool, in the hit movie Le Mans. It oozes vintage charm and is a great choice for car enthusiasts.

While there have been many different variations over the years, including the Dark Lord special edition, the Carbon Monaco and the Monaco Titan, our top pick remains the original. When we sat down with TAG Heuer heritage director Nicholas Biebuyck just a few years back, he explained that the timepiece had managed to break free from the confinements of traditional style.

“The Monaco is such a visually strong design that’s still is so iconic,” he told us. “I think it’s hard to make anything that’s iconic these days because so much looks the same or similar enough. But I think the Monaco is one of those ones that it’s just stood the test of time as being unique and is just such a beautiful watch.”

“Look at the marketplace today. We’re surrounded by hype watches, many of which their origins date back at least to the 1970s and sometimes the 1950s. So it goes to show that enduring design lasts and the Monaco is the perfect encapsulation of that. Since 1969, no one has replicated it.”

Read more about the TAG Heuer Monaco Shop at TAG Heuer

IWC Portugieser Chronograph Ref IW371605 | Image: IWC
IWC Portugieser Chronograph Ref IW371605 | Image: IWC

9. IWC Portugieser Chronograph

  • Reference no: IW371605
  • Diameter: 41mm
  • Movement: 69355 Calibre IWC Manufactured Automatic
  • Case Material: Stainless Steel
  • Water resistance: 30M
  • Price: AUD$13,200

IWC’s Portugieser is pure elegance and offers chronograph functionality in a tasteful package. The mid-sized case and handsome dial give the watch a dressy aesthetic that offers welcome versatility in a market often dominated by sports models. While the range has been around since the late 1930s, things really took off in 2004 with the release of the Portugieser Automatic reference 5007. This iconic piece paired heritage design with some of the best in modern mechanics, paving the way for the latest iterations.

The IWC Portugieser Chronograph Steel retains the immaculate dial layout of certain predecessors and runs on 69355 Calibre with small hacking seconds and a chronograph function. Blue hands and appliqués grace the silver-plated dial and thereby drive home the pristine vibe. Wrapped in sapphire glass with anti-reflective coating on both sides, the watch comes affixed to a luxurious strap of blue alligator leather.

Read more about the IWC Portugieser Shop at IWC

Chopard Alpine Eagle XL Ref 298609-3002 | Image: Chopard
Chopard Alpine Eagle XL Ref 298609-3002 | Image: Chopard

10. Chopard Alpine Eagle XL Chronograph

  • Reference no: 298609-3002
  • Diameter: 44mm
  • Movement: Chopard 03.05-C Calibre Self-Winding
  • Case Material: Stainless Steel
  • Water resistance: 100M

The Alpine Eagle XL Chronograph from Swiss watchmaker Chopard is bigger, bolder and busier than the IWC. It features the angular steel sports watch construction favoured by Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet with prominent screws on the bezel and an integrated bracelet. The galvanic dial, with rhodium-plated Roman numerals, is exquisite and the watch is powered by a chronometer-certified movement with a flyback feature.

Shop at Chopard

Seiko Prospex Speedtimer SSC813 | Image: Seiko
Seiko Prospex Speedtimer SSC813 | Image: Seiko

11. Seiko Prospex Speedtimer SSC813

  • Reference no: SSC813
  • Diameter: 39mm
  • Movement: V192 Solar
  • Case Material: Stainless Steel
  • Water resistance: 100M
  • Price: AUD$1,100

Seiko has a reputation for providing excellent quality watches at very affordable prices and the Prospex Speedtimer is a perfect example. Crafted from stainless steel, and housing a solar-powered movement, the OMEGA’s Speedmaster-influenced SSC813 provides a lot of bang for your buck.

The latest version of the timepiece is powered by Seiko’s solar Calibre V192 and offers a 60-minute chronograph, a 24-hour subdial and with a full charge will operate for up to six months without being exposed to light. Importantly, the Seiko model oozes vintage charm, harking back to the original Speedtimer from 1959. With a blend of hairline and smooth finishes, along with the curved sapphire glass, the chronograph feels robust and sporty without being too busy. Best of all, the Speedtimer is seriously good value, priced at just AUD$1,100.

Read more about the Seiko Speedtimer Shop at Seiko

Oris Divers Sixty-Five | Image: Watches of Mayfair
Oris Divers Sixty-Five | Image: Watches of Mayfair

12. Oris Divers Sixty-Five Chronograph

  • Reference no: 01 771 7744 4354-07 5 21 45
  • Diameter: 43mm
  • Movement: Oris 771 Automatic
  • Case Material: Stainless Steel
  • Water resistance: 100M
  • Price: GBP£3,350

This beauty from Oris is another chronograph watch that has its roots in the 1960s. It has a militaristic edge and pairs a black dial with gold touches and old radium retro-looking lume. Those bold markers sit alongside two subtle sub-dials that reinforce the tool watch vibe.

Shop at Oris

Frederique Constant Flyback Chronograph Ref FC-760V4H4 | Image: Frederique Constant
Frederique Constant Flyback Chronograph Ref FC-760V4H4 | Image: Frederique Constant

13. Frederique Constant Flyback Chronograph

  • Reference no: FC-760V4H4
  • Diameter: 42mm
  • Movement: FC-760 Manufacture Calibre
  • Case Material: Stainless Steel
  • Water resistance: 50M
  • Price: GBP£4,195

The Flyback Chronograph from Frederique Constant is a reserved piece that harks back to the pioneering chronographs of the ’30s. There’s an eye-catching rose-gold plated variation and a more restrained stainless steel model, both featuring a tasteful tri-compax dial. It’s equipped with FC’s automatic Caliber FC-760, an innovative movement containing a star-shaped column wheel and hand-finishing.

Shop at Frederique Constant

Citizen Bullhead AN3660-81A | Image: Citizen
Citizen Bullhead AN3660-81A | Image: Citizen

14. Citizen Bullhead AN3660-81A

  • Reference no: AN3660-81A
  • Diameter: 38mm
  • Movement: Quartz Calibre 0510
  • Case Material: Stainless Steel
  • Water resistance: 50M
  • Price: AUD $399

Sitting at the most affordable end of the market, the Citizen Bullhead is another chronograph that has its roots in motorsports. The Bullhead style was popular in the late ’60s and ’70s with Breitling, Bulova, Tissot, and OMEGA all releasing variations. The concept is simple – as an ergonomic consideration, the chronograph pushers are repositioned to the top of the watch. Hence the Bullhead nickname. Citizen’s latest iteration is an affordable quartz model that faithfully recreates the original look.

Shop at Citizen

Zenith Chronomaster Original | Image: Zenith
Zenith Chronomaster Original | Image: Zenith

15. Zenith Chronomaster Original

  • Reference no: 03.3200.3600/69.M3200
  • Diameter: 38mm
  • Movement: El Primero 3600 Automatic
  • Case Material: Stainless Steel
  • Water resistance: 50M

When it comes to the history of chronograph watches, Zenith is one of the names that stand out. Its El Primero calibre was the world’s first-ever automatic chronograph movement and the Chronomaster line is where its best showcased. Over the years, there have been a number of different models released, but our top pick was released just last year.

Unveiled to coincide with the opening of the new Zenith Manufacture Boutique, the Zenith Chronomaster Original Boutique Edition boasts a design language eerily reminiscent of the early El Primero steel chronographs from 1969. The refined blue and silver colour scheme adds a touch of elegance to the 38mm vintage-inspired timepiece. Of course, the signature tri-colour dial is present, along with styling reminiscent of Rolex’s Daytona and a movement that boasts a 1/10th of a second chronograph function and a 60hr power reserve. Simply stunning

Read more about the Zenith Chronomaster Shop at Zenith

Tudor Black Bay Chronograph Ref M79360N-0002 | Image: Tudor
Tudor Black Bay Chronograph Ref M79360N-0002 | Image: Tudor

16. Tudor Black Bay Chronograph

  • Reference no: M79360N-0002
  • Diameter: 41mm
  • Movement: Manufacture Calibre MT5813
  • Case Material: Stainless Steel
  • Water resistance: 200M
  • Price: GBP £4,550

Tudor’s Black Bay diving watch is by far the brand’s most popular model and the latest chronograph builds on that success. Now boasting Tudor’s Calibre MT5602-U engine, a movement backed by a Master Chronometer certificate from METAS, The Black Bay chronograph is a stunning piece of work. It arrives in a 41mm case and, like the diver, has 200M of water resistance, helped by the screw-down crown and chronograph pushers. The striking panda dial features an Opaline background with black markers and, of course, Tudor’s signature Snowflake hour hand.

Read more about the Tudor Black Bay Shop at Tudor

Patek Philippe 5172G | Image: Patek Philippe
Patek Philippe 5172G | Image: Patek Philippe

17. Patek Philippe 5172G

  • Reference no: 5172G
  • Diameter: 41mm
  • Movement: Caliber CH 29‑535 PS Manually Wound
  • Case Material: White Gold
  • Water resistance: 30M

You have to be an extreme watch aficionado to wear a Patek Philippe with the Swiss manufacturer sitting at the pinnacle of watchmaking. The simply-named 5172G is a wonderful piece that updates the brand’s earlier chronograph model. This new watch has a case forged from white gold and is powered by the in-house manually wound Calibre CH 29‑535 PS. The elegant blue varnished dial is paired with gold applied numerals and has two symmetrical sub-dials

Shop at Patek Philippe

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Chronograph | Image JLC
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Chronograph | Image JLC

18. Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Chronograph

  • Reference no: Q389848J
  • Diameter: 29.9mm
  • Movement: Manufacture Calibre 860
  • Case Material: Stainless Steel
  • Water resistance: 30M
  • Price: AUD$34,800

When is a chronograph watch not a chronograph? The answer is when it’s a watch with two dials – one on the front and one on the back. JLC’s ever-popular Reverso now has a chronograph variant and it’s unlike any other watch we’ve seen. Unveiled at Watches & Wonders this year, the unique variation of the watch arrives in pink gold or steel, and features a closed dial in black for the pink gold case, or grey for the steel case model.

But while case designs are fun, the real gem here is the reverse side. The Reverso Tribute Chronograph has a skeletonised dial that displays the piece’s chronograph and the inner workings of that magnificent calibre 860. If you are looking for the ultimate stealth luxury chronograph, this is one watch that has it all.

Read more about the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Chronograph  Shop at Jaeger-LeCoultre

Hamilton Khaki Aviation Pioneer Ref H76409530 | Image Pioneer
Hamilton Khaki Aviation Pioneer Ref H76409530 | Image Pioneer

19. Hamilton Khaki Aviation Pioneer Mechanical Chrono

  • Reference no: H76409530
  • Diameter: 40mm
  • Movement: Hand-Wound H-51-Si
  • Case Material: Stainless steel
  • Water resistance: 100M
  • Price: AUD$3,275

Hamilton’s heritage is all about its military contracts and the Khaki Aviation Pioneer is based on a watch issued to Britain’s Royal Air Force in the 70s. As you’d expect, it has a militaristic aesthetic and recreates the original’s distinctive asymmetrical case. In keeping with the ethos of the earlier watch, this is a hand-winding model.

Read more about Hamilton Shop at Hamilton

Hublot Classic Fusion Chronograph | Image: Hublot
Hublot Classic Fusion Chronograph | Image: Hublot

20. Hublot Classic Fusion Chronograph Titanium

  • Reference no: 541.NX.1171.RX
  • Diameter: 42mm
  • Movement: HUB1143 Self-winding
  • Case Material: Titanium
  • Water resistance: 50M
  • Price: AUD $15,000

By Hublot’s standards, this is a restrained piece, and at 42mm wide it’s also very wearable. Like the Chopard Alpine Eagle, it has an industrial-like construction that includes exposed screws and plenty of straight lines. It’s a strong look that is consolidated by the lightweight titanium case and a simple black and silver colour palette.

Shop at Hublot

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore | Image: Audemars Piguet
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore | Image: Audemars Piguet

21. Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore

  • Reference no: 26238ST.OO.2000ST.01
  • Diameter: 42mm
  • Movement: Automatic Calibre 4404
  • Case Material: Stainless Steel
  • Water resistance: 100M
  • Price: USD$45,800

Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak Offshore doubles down on the angular steel watch styling. In fact, it’s one of the original pioneers of the look and a firm favourite among watch fans. The Chronograph variation of the classic Royal Oak doesn’t disappoint and has the octagonal bezel and hexagonal screws that we’d expect. In addition, it has a busy dial with AP’s signature Petite Tapisserie pattern.

The latest Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshores feature the new self-winding calibre 4404 with an integrated chronograph. The flyback function lets you start, stop, and reset with just one function, while also dishing out 70 hours of power reserve.

Read more about the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Shop at Audemars Piguet

Sinn 356 Pilot Ref Art-Nr. 356.020 | Image: Sinn
Sinn 356 Pilot Ref Art-Nr. 356.020 | Image: Sinn

22. Sinn 356 Pilot

  • Reference no: Art-Nr. 356.020
  • Diameter: 38.5mm
  • Movement: SW 500 Automatic
  • Case Material: Stainless Steel
  • Water resistance: 100M
  • Price: €1990

We love the authenticity behind German brand Sinn. Its functional watches look like pilot’s watches because the company’s founder, Helmut Sinn, was a WW2 pilot. The 356 is a typically rugged piece that captures the spirit of the brand. It features a bead-blasted case and a militaristic dial that incorporates the German Flieger styling regularly used by Sinn.

Shop at Sinn

Blancpain Air Command Ref AC02 36B40 63B | Image: Blancpain
Blancpain Air Command Ref AC02 36B40 63B | Image: Blancpain

23. Blancpain Air Command

  • Reference no: AC02 36B40 63B
  • Diameter: 42.5mm
  • Movement: Automatic Calibre F388B
  • Case Material: Red Gold
  • Water resistance: 30M
  • Price: GBP£28,400

The final watch on our list is from another brand famed for its use by the military. Although you’re probably more familiar with its iconic Fifty Fathoms dive watch, Blancpain also makes this excellent chronograph. It’s another watch that mines a back catalogue and is a reworking of a military watch Blancpain created in the 50s. This variant adds a touch of flair with its red gold case and the rich blue of the dial, bezel and strap.

As we noted in our review, the new Blancpain Air Command does exactly what it set out to do, striking a masterful balance between form and function. Whilst the size, design language, and flyback complication remain quite faithful to its 1950s predecessor, the newer version feels very much modern.

Measuring 42.5mm, the Air Command lands on the larger side, however, the use of colour gives the piece a little more symmetry. Two oversized sub-dials, Super-LumiNova markers, and the tachymeter scale harmonise upon the clean display. Taking the piece into purely modern terrain is in-house Calibre F388B—touted as one of Blancpain’s most advanced movements—which appears through sapphire on the exhibition caseback.

Read more about the Blancpain Air Command Shop at Blancpain

Iwc pilots watch chronograph 41 top gun oceana
IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 TOP GUN “Oceana” | Image: IWC

Brief History of the Chronograph Watch

Watchmaking is famed for its constant innovation and each time a new problem is presented to the industry it gets to work finding a mechanical solution. One such problem was how to time a specific event. The solution would be to create a new watch that could be stopped and started – unsurprisingly called a stopwatch.

Beginning in the early 1800s, watchmakers began to present their solutions to this problem, with Longines debuting the first chronograph wristwatch a century later. Progress was then quick and by the 1920s Breitling had released the first watch to feature the standard double pushers we’re all familiar with. Fast forward to 1969 and Zenith claimed to have invented the world’s first automatic chronograph movement.

2 grand seiko sbgc253 spring drive chronograph gmt
SBGC253 Spring Drive Chronograph GMT | Image: Grand Seiko

What Makes a Chronograph Special?

We’re tempted to say that it’s the unique styling of chronograph watches that makes them so popular among watch enthusiasts, but that would understate the importance of the stopwatch feature. A chronograph watch displays the time as you’d expect but also allows the wearer to measure seconds, minutes, and hours as a stopwatch. That’s very practical in many areas of life and is a difficult feature to build into a watch movement. In fact, it can be so complicated that it’s best that we clarify some terms for you.

  • Tachymeter – If you’ve worn a chronograph watch for years and never quite figured out the Tachymeter, you’re not alone. Simply put, the Tachymeter is the scale at the edge of the dial that is used, along with the chronograph hand, to measure speed. It’s one of the reasons why so many chronographs were used for motor racing.
  • Flyback – A flyback chronograph has a cool feature that allows the user to quickly reset and restart the chronograph hand in one motion, ideal if you need to measure multiple events one after another.
  • Pusher – The pushers are the buttons – usually two – that you press to start, stop and reset the chronograph.
  • Sub-dial – The small dials that measure the chronograph running seconds, minutes and hours are called sub-dials. A dial with two sub-dials is a bi-compax layout and the tri-compax layout has three.
  • Clutch – The clutch is the part of the movement that engages (or disengages) the chronograph feature with the main timekeeping gear train.
  • Cam Lever – This part of the chronograph movement controls the start, stop, and reset functions.
  • Column Wheel – The column wheel is widely viewed as a more desirable way to control the chronograph functions than a cam lever.

How Do You Use a Chronograph?

Mechanical chronograph watch movements are the result of years of research and experimentation and are one of watchmaking’s most desirable complications. But don’t worry, they’re easy to use. To start the chronograph you simply press the upper pusher. The same pusher is pressed a second time to stop the chronograph. To reset it to zero, press the lower pusher.

Alternatives to Chronograph Watches

While chronographs are often seen as the pinnacle of watchmaking, there are a number of other watch types that you should put on your reading list. From pilot watches to field pieces, there is no shortage of timepieces to check out. Here are some alternatives to chronographs for you to check out:

How We Chose the Best Chronographs

When it comes to choosing our list of the best chronograph watches money can buy, we turned to our watch expert Lee Smith and our list of editors to choose their favourites. Man of Many has had the chance to get hands-on with every watch on this list (often thanks to their friends in the industry, but one look at our coverage from Watches & Wonders could tell you that). Man of Many’s lists takes into account three major perspectives to determine the overall rating, quality, price point, and availability. As one of the best watch blogs on the internet they have the knowledge to determine what makes a good chronograph watch, but in addition to their own opinions, we’ve also taken into account reviews via industry leaders such as Time and TideHODINKEE, and Worn and Wound.

Chronograph Watch FAQs

What is the best value-for-money Chronograph watch on the market?

Although picking the best value-for-money chronograph watch from all the excellent models is difficult, a couple of watches really stand out. From this list, Tissot's PRX Chronograph is an obvious candidate with its stunning design and Swiss-made automatic movement. However, if you fancy something quirky, and great value for money, check out Seagull's 1963 chronograph.

Who makes the best Chronograph watches?

If money is no object and you want the best that the horological world offers, then a chronograph from one of the big three watchmakers - Audemars Piguet, Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin - would be the obvious choice. But if you'd prefer an iconic watch? Then Omega's Moonwatch or the ever-popular Rolex Daytona will be at the top of your list.

Are quartz Chronograph watches any good?

As we mentioned earlier, watch geeks love chronograph watches because of the complexity of the feature and the years of experimentation and innovation needed to develop this complication. Battery-powered quartz watches bypass much of that watchmaking prowess and tend to be less popular with watch enthusiasts. But make no mistake, they function just as well, if not better, than mechanical chronographs and tend to have the same distinctive styling.