The Wind Up – Watch News #307

Welcome back to the Wind Up, your weekly go-to resource for all things new in the world of watches. This week was a tamer one, especially when compared with the last few, but with that being said, there was still a plethora of new watches to long and lust over.

We had new watches released by Ressence and Bell & Ross, along with perhaps one of the best collaborative efforts by Louis Erard and none other than Vianney Halter. Meanwhile, Tudor piqued everyone’s interest with the announcement of a piece-unique that we’re all hoping will evolve into a fully-fledged production model. Enjoy fellas.

Ressence Type 9

• Brand: Ressence
• Model: Type 9
• Diameter: 39mm
• Material: Titanium
• Movement: Calibre 2894/2 with a ROCS 9 module
• Power Reserve: 36 hours
• Water Resistance: Splash-resistant
• Price: CHF12,500

The next compelling chapter for Ressence comes in the form of the new Type 9. Perhaps the most minimalistic-looking piece in the entire collection, Type 9 combines a very muted aesthetic with the maison’s rather intriguing technical prowess. At its heart lies the ROCS 9 module, a stunning example of meticulous composition and framework that has been housed in a reimagined polished titanium case. According to the brand, this design “echoes the gentle flow of a wave, striking a perfect balance between strength and fluidity”.

Importantly, Type 9 introduces a few new form factors to the already impressive design language. For the first time in the brand’s history, the Minute indicator is placed outside the dial, with a fixed bezel featuring engraved indexes. This ultimately gives the watch a more compact appearance, improving wearability and dialling up the ergonomics. Meanwhile, the circled finish on both the bezel and Hour ring add refinement, while the lugs subtly nod to classic watchmaking, providing a much-appreciated heritage touch to an ultra-modern silhouette.

“The TYPE 9 is the smallest watch we can produce to this day, considering the size of the components,” Ressence founder Benoît Mintiens explained. “From a distance, it looks very classical, but up close, it reveals itself as much more sophisticated. It is a modern fit for every wrist.”

I am a really big fan of the process in which the titanium case opens up to reveal a titanium dial. This multi-layered approach is what Ressence has staked its horological claim on and it is positioned front and centre with Type 9. Both the grey and aqua colour palettes work really well for the overall visceral scheme of the Type 9, but for those looking for something a touch more conventional (and subtle, at that), the grey model would be right up your alley.

Bell & Ross BR-05 Skeleton Arctic Blue

• Brand: Bell & Ross
• Model: BR-05 Skeleton Arctic Blue
• Reference Number: BR-05
• Diameter: 40mm
• Movement: Calibre BR-CAL.322-1
• Power Reserve: 54 hours
• Water Resistance: 100m
• Price: €7,800 (Limited to 250 pieces)

It would appear 2024 is the year of the muted colour palette. After Ressence stunned us with the breaktaking Type 9, Bell & Ross has dropped an ice cold new BR-05 Skeleton Arctic Blue, completewith a similarly soft toned finish. The fusions of rubber, stainless steel and light blue highlights makes for an intriguing design that feels innately fresh from Bell & Ross, despite it’s familiar square case design.

Perhaps the most visually engaging aspect of the BR-05 Skeleton Arctic Blue, however, is the striking skeletonised dial. Behind the sapphire crystal lies a sapphire plate that has been laser-engraved to mimic the look of cracked ice. Rather cool and certainly a play on the senses (is my sapphire crystal cracked?!), the BR-05 Skeleton Arctic Blue definitely edges on the side of theatre rather than bona fide watchmaking. That isn’t necessarily a bad thing, if you ask me.

Louis Erard Le Régulateur Louis Erard x Vianney Halter II

• Brand: Louis Erard 
• Model: Le Régulateur Louis Erard x Vianney Halter II
• Reference Number: Ref. 85246AA02.BVA172
• Diameter: 43mm
• Movement: Sellita SW266-1
• Power Reserve: 38 hours
• Water Resistance: 50m
• Price: €4,444 (Limited to 178 pieces each)

Vianney Halter’s Antiqua is perhaps one of the most important and storied watches of modern watchmaking, in particular amongst the hallowed halls of independent high horology. The Antiqua opened the door for many a watchmaker to strut their stuff, and the ensuing prevailing winds enabled other fantastically creative individuals to garner the confidence to translate a thought into a tangible. 

And here we are, with the second collaborative iteration with the esteemed independent watchmaker. The Le Régulateur Louis Erard x Vianney Halter II is arguably cooler, more refined and far more indicative of the VH aesthetic than the first collaboration. It’s available in two distinct colour ways, each stylised to capture the visceral essence that has made the Antiqua such a legendary piece. I have but one gripe — close the caseback. Otherwise, utterly epic.

Tudor Black Bay Ceramic “Las Vegas Grand Prix” for the Visa Cash App RB Formula One Team

• Brand: Tudor
• Model: Black Bay Ceramic “Las Vegas Grand Prix” for the Visa Cash App RB Formula One Team
• Diameter: 41mm
• Material: Ceramic
• Movement: MT5602-1U
• Power Reserve: 70 hours
• Water Resistance: 200m
• Price: Two pieces made for Visa Cash App RB Formula One team drivers

If you’re one of the lucky two Formula 1 drivers currently on the roster for the Visa Cash App RB Formula One Team, then you’d also be one of only two people in the world to own this unique Tudor. Eponymously named the Black Bay Ceramic “Las Vegas Grand Prix” for the Visa Cash App RB Formula One Team, this unique piece is as striking as it is rare.

At its core, what we have is a ceramic Black Bay, albeit one with a few dashes of colour. These very special, and I supposed you could call them piece uniques, sport a speckled and graduated greenish-blue dial paired with a matching coloured leather-covered rubber strap. The nearest piece celebrating the partnership is the Black Bay Ceramic Blue which is a far cry from the visually dominant Black Bay Ceramic “Las Vegas Grand Prix” for the Visa Cash App RB Formula One Team. I do think however, we’ll be seeing a production model that is fairly similar to this in due time, too.

OMEGA Opens New Perth Flagship Boutique

After months of development, luxury watchmaker OMEGA has opened its first boutique in Western Australia. Located on the corner of Wolf Lane and Murray Street, the OMEGA Perth boutique is housed within a historic 19th century building, and features a smattering of bespoke design elments aimed at capturing the brand’s affinity for the traditional. From the exposed sprinkler pipework to the metal pressed ceilings, a number of original fixtures have been lovingly restored to add a level of local authenticity and heritage to the mix.

At 252.25m2, the showroom is one of the largest in the country and OMEGA has made the most of the space on offer. Inside, you’ll find a 150-rod chandelier, fully equipped bar and reception, an exquisite VIP suite and a three-metre tall golden atronaut. As OMEGA president and CEO Raynald Aeschlimann described, the launch of the new bourique marks a significant milestone in the iconic brand’s plans for Australia.

“Our new Boutique in Perth is a symbol of OMEGA’s growing presence in Australia, which continues to be a significant and important market for our brand,” Mr Aeschlimann said. “We’re delighted to have our first flagship boutique in Western Australia and connect with new clients across the region. It’s an exciting store inside a beautiful historic building, and we look forward to welcoming everyone inside.”

The OMEGA Murray Street Boutique, Perth is now open 317 Murray Street Perth WA 6000. The brand’s four major collections will be on offer, comprising the Constellation, Seamaster, Speedmaster and De Ville models.