Day one of the Salon International de Haute Hologerie (SIHH) saw some of the greatest watchmakers across the globe debut stunning, impressive and, in some cases, utterly revolutionary timepieces to bring in 2018.
Day two is no different with timepiece titans maintaining a clear focus on how they’re going to set themselves apart from the pack. The results are, as expected: some fantastic and groundbreaking products that you’ll have to see to believe.
After more than 260 years of modernising, improving and revolutionising their products – some that have had a chain reaction and affected the entire industry – Vacheron Constantin are entering 2018 by paying homage to one of their most special creations – the reference 6073.
Beyond that, they ensure that their wearers can conquer the globe – just as VC has – with some travel-ready watches that are perfect at home or abroad.
Vacheron Constantin FIFTYSIX
Vacheron Constantin’s FIFTYSIX collection is honouring the reference 6073 – a classic piece from the 1950s that simply transcends era. Because of this, VC have decided to release a collection with something for everyone but still keeping that 1950s motif that looks refined and classy. The three watches, all 40mm and all – for the first time – coming in either gold or steel options, all possess various complications giving you plenty to choose from.
The self-winding watch is the simplest of the three, but with its calibre 1326 movement, 48-hour power reserve and gorgeous open-worked Maltese cross-shaped oscillating weight, its simplicity doesn’t overshadow its style. The day-date with power reserve indicator sports a self-winding, calibre 2475 SC/2 movement, but its most appealing features lay on the dial – the date, the power reserve indicator and day of the week indicator at 3, 6 and 9 o’clock respectively.
Finally, and arguably the highlight of this collection, the complete calendar model with moon phase indicator looks elegant with its monochrome dial with opaline-sunburst effect. A self-winding movement, calibre 2460 QCL/1, powers the day of the week, date, month and moon phase indications.
The precise and intricate construction of this timepiece means the moon phase indication only needs to be reset once every 122 years – which is perfect because this collection will be stylish for a lifetime.
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Collection
The Overseas collection is, obviously, a tribute to the travelling man and comes with two pieces that are ready for any trans-ocean adventure. The Overseas dual time watch is operating on a mechanical self-winding movement, Vacheron Constantin Calibre 5100 DT, and actually allows for the simultaneous reading of two different time zones thanks to its coaxial hands.
On top of that, the 41mm dial also features a day/night indication and a pointer-type date display. The Overseas Ultra-Thin perpetual calendar watch, however, is a far more innovative piece with a super-slim 4.05mm movement concealing 276 parts. The Vacheron Constantin Calibre 1120 QP/1 is a self-winding mechanical movement that powers a perpetual calendar and moon-phase indications.
In addition, the movement keeps track of any calendar irregularities with no need for correction until the year 2100. The case is an 18 carat 5N pink gold thing of beauty that measures 41.5mm in diameter and is water resistant up to 50 metres.
Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle
Conceived with the purpose of creating a modern expression of the Geneva watchmaking tradition, the aptly named ‘Traditionnelle’ collection are looking to the celebrate what’s made the practice great with two iconic complications that changed the game – the complete calendar and the tourbillon.
The Traditionnelle Tourbillon is actually a milestone for VC, as it operates on the first self-winding tourbillon movement developed by VC themselves. The Calibre 2160 movement is ultra-slim and has an 80-hour power reserve. The tourbillon component – appearing at the 6 o’clock mark – is housed in a carriage that’s entirely hand-bevelled and lays on a opaline silver-toned dial.
The ‘Traditionnelle Complete Calendar’ also features an in-house movement, the Calibre 2460 QCL, that houses 308 components. The complete calendar indication – with the day above 9 o’clock, the month above 3 o’clock’ and the dates spread around the dial with a third hand – has been inserted seamlessly into the dial with no clutter. Just above the 6 o’clock mark, you’ll find a moon phase indication that only requires adjustment every 122 years.
While a lot of timepiece manufacturers take the popular ‘less is more’ approach, Panerai are tackling SIHH 2018 with ferocity and courage. ‘Limitation’ is not in the Panerai vocabulary, especially when you consider their timepieces this year. Whilst they’re toeing a very precarious line between innovation and randomness, they’ve managed to pull it off.
The L’Astronomo is actually the first of Panerai’s creations to feature both a moon phase indication and an innovative system using polarised crystals to display the date. Dedicated to Galileo Galilei, this 50mm beauty operates on a skeleton, hand-wound mechanical P.2005/GLS calibre movement with a power reserve of 4 days.
Panerai have spared no expense in packing this timepiece with as much innovation as possible, as it includes indications of date, month, a second time zone, a sunset & sunrise indicator, a tourbillon and a moon phase – the latter two visible from both the front and back due to the skeletal construction.
Panerai Luminor Due 45MM
While Panerai have three sizes available for their Luminor Due collection (38, 42 and 45mm), bigger is certainly better in this case as the 45mm is the real star. It’s a sleek and elegant watch that doesn’t slack on functionality or innovation. Operating on an automatic P.4002 calibre movement with a 3 day power reserve, this 4.8mm thick watch will blend seamlessly into any suit or formal get-up.
Complete with date, GMT and power reserve indications on the anthracite sun-brushed dial and a polished steel bezel, the Luminor Due 45mm is the only way to go when it comes to this stunning collection.
Panerai Lo Scienziato
Designed in 3D and rocking a bulky yet comfortable 47mm diameter case, the Lo Scienziato is a technological marvel to put it lightly. The hand-wound movement calibre P.2005/T is made of titanium, like the case and has a power reserve of an impressive 6 days.
On the front and the side, you can see the tourbillon cage, GMT hand and day/night display while the power reserve indicator is visible on the back. Finally, this model has a sapphire crystal and is water resistant to 100m. It’s a skeletal and sturdy timepiece that absolutely screams power.
Cartier’s approach to SIHH 2018 has been about dedication to some of the key moments in the manufacturer’s lifespan, all while reinvigorating them with modernity and style appropriate for the year 2018.
After creating the first ever dedicated pilot’s watch, they’ve opted to reintroduce one of their most iconic moments to a modern audience, 114 years after the original’s release.
Cartier Santos De Cartier
In 1904, Brazilian aviator Alberto Santos wanted a watch that he could wear while flying. Cartier stepped up to the challenge and produced the Santos De Cartier, arguably the first dedicated pilot’s watch ever made. Now, the iconic watch has been reissued, refined and reinvigorated for 2018 and the result is stunning.
While still possessing the vintage aesthetic that attracts so many, this collection has vamped up the power and is soaring to new heights with a technological revamp only appropriate for 2018. Running on a calibre 1847 MC movement, the watch remains classic and stylishly timeless – could’ve been worn 100 years ago, and can be worn 100 years from now.
With Roman numeral indexes on the silvered dial and four colour options for the case, this watch comes in a medium (35.1mm x 41.9mm) and a large (39.8mm x 47.5mm) option – the latter of which comes in a skeletonised model.
With a conscious effort to move away from their traditional classic looks and dive head first into modernity and cutting edge fashion, Girard Perregaux are welcoming 2018 with open arms. Adhering to the three pillars of technology, modernity and audacity, they’ve released timepieces that might not be classic forever but are excellent for right now.
Girard Perregaux Bridge Minute Repeater Tri-Axial Tourbillon
Looking like nothing else you’ve ever seen, the Minute Repeater Tri-Axial Tourbillon is the epitome of those three pillars GP are sticking by with this release. Cased in 48mm of titanium, as to so it chimes as loud as possible, the movement operating this marvel is the manual-winding, in-house calibre GP09560, complete with 53 jewels and a 60-hour power reserve.
The tri-axial tourbillon – located across the bottom of the dial – presents an innovative way to display the standard hour, minutes and seconds indications. Also, it leaves the entire top half for the repeater mechanism. It’s a skeletal marvel that echoes innovation with every chime.
Girard Perregaux Laureato 42mm Ceramic
While the aforementioned watch was a technological feat and audacious at every point, the Laureato 42mm Ceramic is understated, sleek and beyond stylish. In a breathtaking all-black, the entire watch – from the bracelet to the case to the clasp – is ceramic which is no easy feat to master, but one Girard Perregaux have mastered nonetheless.
Powered by the self-winding calibre GP01800-0025 with a 54 hour power reserve, this watch’s innovation lies in its construction as opposed to having fancy complications.
Girard Perregaux Laureato Skeleton Ceramic
This is where Girard Perregaux combine the technological marvel of the Tri-Axial Tourbillon and the sturdy classiness of the 42mm Ceramic. Looking like the lovechild of both, the Laureato Skeleton Ceramic is exactly what it sounds like.
Also running on the self-winding calibre GP01800-0025, the ceramic case looks even more stunning in contrast to the skeletonised dial. On top of that, GP added a gold balance wheel and 18k pink gold rotor which offers that refreshing shine if you think the all-black ceramic is too intense.