The first day of Salon International de Haute Horologerie (SIHH) brought us plenty of luxury watches to drool over, from the race-inspired Roger Dubuis Excalibur Spider Carbon to the mind-blowingly unique MB&F HM7 Aquapod. The innovation we witnessed got us extremely excited for what day 2 would have in store, and we were not disappointed.
IWC Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar Chronograph is making the old new again
In 2017 IWC is making some big noise with the reinvigoration of their classic 1985 design bringing us a new Da Vinci collection. After trying on the pieces, we feel that this throwback to the formal look that IWC flaunted during the 80’s, looks just as good today as it did back in ’85, and the Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar Chronograph was one of our favourites.
Whilst staying true to the DNA of the Da Vinci design, minor design changes have been made to all pieces of the collection, such as curved, articulated lugs to improve comfort on wrist. However, the most significant update to the Perpetual Calendar Chronograph lies within the movement. The original Da Vinci perpetual calendar chronograph used a modified Valjoux 7750 movement, while these modernised versions use IWC’s in-house, perpetual calendar chronograph movement – calibre 89630. It features a high-precision moon phase, as well as a four-digit display of the year with the ability to display up until the year 2299.
IWC Da Vinci Tourbillon Retrograde Chronograph
This beast features a newly designed calibre 89900 in-house movement. It’s a flyback, column-wheel chronograph with a vertical clutch and automatic winding. It boasts a visually strong 18-carat red gold case, complimented by a silver pated dial, with the hour/minute timer displayed at 12 o’clock, balanced both visually and functionally by the flying tourbillon positioned at 6.
If you’re into the Da Vinci style, but a price tag with five zeros isn’t your thing, IWC’s 40mm Automatic is a more fiscally sensible entry point into the world of the new Da Vinci collection.
Piaget 60th Anniversary Altiplano commemorates their anniversary by paying tribute to yesteryear
60 is a hugely significant number for the industry. Our entire concept of time is centred around the number 60 – 60 seconds in a minute, 60 minutes in an hour – and Piaget have commemorated their 60th anniversary with effortless style. With plans to make the old new again, Piaget have released a limited edition collection of their icon 1967 design – the Antiplano. For us, the standout variant of this collection is the 43mm diameter 18K white gold case case, Piaget blue and leather strap, blue dial with distinctive Piaget cross-hair design and a Piaget 1200P ultra-thin mechanical self-winding movement.
Speake-Marin Crazy Skulls is an entire narrative on your wrist
This year marks the first time that this Swiss brand is participating in SIHH, and what an eerie narrative they have brought with the introduction of this particular piece. The concept is that two souls are linked through the death of the heart – visible in between the two skulls that reign salient over the face. The heart is a vivid red 60 second tourbillon. This dial also conceals a minute repeater, which begins to ring once the slider is activated. A mechanism separates the two skulls and reveals the tourbillon aka the heart. The numerals of the 12 fall apart in a way to convey the despair of these two souls, however as hammers striking three gongs sound time, the numbers are revived and back to their original place.
Baume & Mercier My Classima is for the traditional at heart
This unisex gem has mastered the balance between bulky and diminutive. Powered by quartz movements in an effort to appeal to a wider audience, this watch is for the every man. The 40mm diameter option is probably going to be your best bet, but if you’re more partial to a slightly subtler watch, or even have a smaller wrist, the 36.5mm diameter may serve you well. Both are cased in steel, and have a date aperture at 3 o’clock.
Baume & Mercier Clifton Club Collection is not your average sports watch
This collection from Baume & Mercier is made as a “tribute to gentlesportsmen” which promises to be a great fit for the Aussie lifestyle, as it’s all about being outdoors, active, sporty yet refined. It also promises to be customisable, offering multiple strap options including an eye-catching rubber nato strap that really had us wowed. The round case has a diameter of 42 mm, powered by the Sellita SW200 movement, with an automatic calibre and 48-hour power reserve. The 120 notch bezel is unidirectional to prevent false readings if turned the wrong way. It’s water-resistant up to an impressive 100m, and dons a 38-hour power reserve.
Baume & Mercier Clifton Club Shelby Cobra pays homage to a legend
Embedded in this watch is the spirit of the late, great Peter Brock who designed the prominent Cobra detail, featured on the bright red chronograph second hand – this is central to this watch’s aesthetic. The 44mm diameter case is forged in titanium and polished stainless steel, rendering the watch lightweight yet highly resistant. This sleek number operates on an automatic, La Joux-Perret 8147-2 calibre movement, with a power reserve of 42 hours. The colour scheme is a classic blue/silver combination, acting as a stunning homage to the Shelby Cobra Daytona Coupe – the car that this watch claims its namesake from.
Ulysse Nardin Marine Regatta zooms ahead in innovation
This watch comes as a result of a collaboration between Ulysse Nardin and Artemis Racing. The heavy, 44mm diameter steel case, which has an impressive water resistance to 100m, is finished with a fluted bezel with corresponding rubber inserts, and is cuffed with faceted lugs that perfectly integrate the rubber strap. Uniquely, this watch boasts a bi-directional seconds hand with an added countdown timer. This is done so that one can count down as well as document time elapsed with no other action besides activating the countdown. It’s also sporting a brand new calibre UN-155 movement with an ample 72-hour reserve. To top it off, the face sports a two-way seconds hand which can be stopped to adjust the hour, and the bi-directional date change merely adds to this watch’s impressive practicality.
Ulysse Nardin Innovision 2 is an experiment gone right.
This may be the most appropriately named watch on this list, as Ulysse Nardin have pulled no stops when it comes to making sure this watch will excite and intrigue. It is absolutely jam packed with technical innovation. It’s loaded with a dual constant escapement which – long story short – renders the watch efficient as it uses less energy, but does not compromise on its accuracy. Its display also takes on quite an innovative approach as it shows the numbers 1 – 11 in analogue,, and then displays 13 – 23 digitally afterwards. It’s also rocking three-dimensional glass minute hands, with that same hand housing the movement’s essential components. Finally, in one “outside of the box” design move, the bridge for the escapement and balance is made of glass, which is unusual for a load-bearing component.
Ulysse Nardin Marine Annual Calendar Chronometer makes huge waves
Sporting a calibre UN-153 movement which has been upgraded from the previously used UN-118 movement, this watch is housed in a sturdy 43mm diameter case – that comes in either stainless steel or 18k red gold – and the dial has been classed up with the use of prominent roman numerals, with only 6 o’clock being obstructed, welcomely, by the magnified date window. This watch also features an annual calendar – displaying both the month and the date – that only needs to be adjusted once a year by marrying the two functionalities, while the other calendar requires approximately five adjustments per year.